1986 kawasaki ZL 900 A2 Eliminator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I use 120cc each side of medium but I have found that a little hard except on warmest days but my forks have modified two-way dampling internals from CBR600. Standard is 169cc each side.

try new spark plug or check that you have not put to much oil in clean where spark plug gos all so if you have to keep chageing the batarry you may of over cooked it

yes,,,,, i like

servis

You can try Babbitt's www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

You can also google motorcycle salvage kawasaki and see what you can find. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

The plugs are numbered left to right when seated. The left plug is #1. The diagram below shows plug numbers and coil wire placement.

YOU ARE CREATING A VACUUM BY BLOCKING OFF THE AIR INTAKE, IT IS SUCKING THE GAS OUT OF THE IDLE JET OR THE CHOKE. The low speed jet is either the wrong size or clogged up, You can try squirting in some carb cleaner as it is trying to run, or just take the thing apart again, and make sure the jets are clean, get a guitar string wire in there and blow through the hole. And before you do that, check the pump, make sure it is pumping fuel, not just sucking it in. Check it out.

Ok, the correct proceedure for starting a cold engine is as follows, pull the choke fully on, and crank over the engine, DO NOT use the throttle when cranking the engine, when the bike fires and starts, slowly turn down the choke until a smooth fast idle achieved. The important thing to remember is, do not use the throttle while the choke is on, as this lets it **** in cold air, and makes for a harder start, remember the choke is there to restrict air flow, make a rich fuel mixture, for cold starting. If that does not work, then mabey u have a carby problem, make sure your choke is coming on.

GPZ900 spark plug caps fit fine & are easier to get hold of, but get genuine!
3 litres with a filter change, 2.7 without

Hope this helps (if so please mark as helpful !!)
Ride safe
Bike-Doc

Your firing order is most likely to go 1423 with the first cylinder being on the left (shifter) side of the bike. This is what many Kawasaki's used.

Is it like a atom modifiers? What forward controls are you asking for, just describe it more clearly or go Google in the intenet.

check you starter is working, to activate starter touch a wire from the battery to terminal on starter ,starter should turn..

Sounds like the carbs are needing cleaned and the intake boots need to be looked at for cracks.
If it was the head gasket it wouldn't run.

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Have you chkd the timing.? The plate hat the oints mount on does move sometimes and the rub block on the points wear and changes the timing. That is if this bike has points.

the best way is to lossen the adjuster nuts at the carbs and then at the throttle undo the switch gear remove the bar end pull the twist grip by pulling it off the bar with the swtich grear then remove the nipples from the twist grip then remove the cables from the switch gear then refit in reverse and adust the cables should have about 3 to 5 mm of freeplay hope this helps

Well it sounds like your starter solenoid is bad.

And yes 99% of all charging systems WILL NOT charge at idle. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

FIRST OFF, EVEN THOUGH THE BATTERY IS NEW TO YOU, IT MAY HAVE BEEN ON THE SHELF AT THE DEALER FOR SOME TIIME. VERIFY A GOOD BATTERY WITH THE APPROPRIATE TESTER. AFTER THAT YOU CAN CHECK YOUR STATOR BY VERIFYING CONTINUITY AND OPENS IN THE STATOR HARNESS. EASIER WAY IS TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AFTER YOU START THE BIKE AND IF IT CONTINUES TO RUN THE STATOR IS LIKELY OK. AND YOU SHOULD LOOK AT THE REG/RECT AT THAT POINT. YOU'LL NEED CORRECT MEASUREMENTS FOR THE READOUTS ON THESE TESTS. QUICK CHECK THE STATOR BY TESTING ACROSS THE 3 YELLOW LEADS. YOU SHOULD GET CONT. WITH ANY COMBINATION OF THE THREE WIRES. NOW TEST EASH YELLOW LEAD TO GROUND. THERE SHOULD BE "NO" CONT. BETWEEN ANY YELLOW AND GROUND. IF THERE IS, IT IS SHORTED AND WILL NEED REPLACING.
ON A BIKE OF THIS AGE IT ISNT UNUSUAL FOR THE STARTER BUTTON TO "RESIST" SOMETIMES. THIS IS IN THE PSUH BUTTON ITSELF.SOMETIMES YOU CAN REPAIR THESE CONTACTS AND SOMETIMES YOU CANT. IF IT CLICKS WHEN YOU PRESS THE START BUTTON, THAT COULD BE THE START RELAY OR A BAD WIRE CONNECTION. CHECK THESE ALSO WHEN YOU CHECK YOUR BATTERY!

Generally there are only two things that will make a knocking noise in the gearbox. First is a broken tooth on a gear and second is a bad rod bearing. If the noise is there in neutral and all the other gears then a bad rod bearing is likely. If the knocking is only there when the clutch is out and the bike is in gear then a broken tooth is likely.

Repair parts will be a problem but you can try Babbitt's.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Assuming it's a KZ550, first off, your gonna need the battery, ign module, rectifier/regulator, and ign. coils. There should be a wiring harness (5 wires or so) coming from the alt housing (on left crank end) with 2 yellows one pink(to rectifier),red/blk(ign power to cdi) & (light green is neutral light- not needed). Next, assuming there's no points, there should be a 2 or 3 wire harness (usually blue/brown) from ign triggers (on right crank end) these need to go to CDI module. Then make wires from CDI module to coils. Don't forget to ground everything to motor case. Also if it's electric start only, your gonna need the start solonoid ,too. If you want a detailed wiring diagram, let me know what color wires & how many there is on the rectifier/regulator and CDI and the motor and I can email you a diagram.