1981 kawasaki KZ 1300 A3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Follow the link to available downloads of wiring diagrams and other info. http://www.kz1000r.com/downloads

Common causes of backfires are:

• Poor or unregulated engine timing is often a cause of intake backfires, but can also be responsible for exhaust backfires
• Improper wiring in the ignition can also lead to timing issues and backfires
• Low fuel pressure, clogged fuel filters, and weak fuel pumps could cause a severe lean air-to-fuel ratio during fuel injection
• Missing or damaged catalytic converter can result in backfires out the tailpipe

Well if your oil light is staying lit, but your oil pressure is good and you cant find any problems with the actual oiling of the bike, then this sounds basically like either A.Your sending unit is bad or B. You have a ground in your oil sending unit circuit somewhere. You could always replace the sending unit first to save time shooting the wiring harness.if you replace the unit and the light is still on, then you have a wire touching in the circuit between the sending unit and the warning light. I have an 81 KZ750 and my oil sending unit only has one wire going from it to the warning light and the color of it is Blue with a Red Stripe.I am not sure if yours has the same wiring colors though.

G'day,
You could go to this link & compare part numbers of various models to see if they cross referance.
It's http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_select1.asp?cat=Motorcycles&mfg=Kawasaki

Hope this was of some help.
Regards Andrew Porrelli.

Use 50/50 or full strength antifreeze. If you own it, Prestone it!!!
Don't use water.

a standard 12v that fits the model-dont matter what Co. they all wear out in 3 yr from heat, vibration, charging--if u hav a kikstarter a battery eliminator by Exxel can be installed -its maintenance free

yes it could be a valve problem.
Check the valve clearances
Do a cylnder compression test
Check for air leaks in the intake boots

you will find the wireing diagram you require in the genuine kawasaki workshop manual for your model available through any kawasaki dealership due to the age of your machine you will more than likely have to put it on back order

Try to change coil from one side to the other, if the spark goes to 2 & 3 but not 1 & 4 you need the coil replaced or find the power loss (blown fuse) .I have not worked on that bike so am not sure. also color code on wires in the harness will be enough to follow wires without the book,no need to cut them open just note the colors at the point you are trying to check,follow along the way untill that color comes to a conector. or to the fuse buss or device.A multi meter can check condition between points Hope that will help you good luck .Joe

you have a short some where this is where the fun starts you need start looking at plugs, switches and things like that

check vacuum pipes are not leaking. if you have removed airbox for K&N cone filters then vacuum tubes need to be sealed.

I believe you have a vacuum operated petcock on that bike, they were known to give trouble, sounds like you have a vacuum leak.. Check for cracks in the rubber mounts that the carbs mount to also. Also if you have carbs with round tops they have diaphragms in them, a hole in one will cause what you are experiencing.

The best way to do this is buy some shorter shocks. If your shocks are 12 inch from eye to eye then go to 10 inch eye to eye. You cant go to low cause of the shock travel and the fender may hint the tire and that would be dangerous.

the gap should be 0.8-0.9=0.31-0.32 on feeler guages

Those arent ajustment screws as the screws are in front of the float bowels in the center of each carb and they only trun a quarter turn unless the locks have been removed they'll keep turning with the blows off and they are likly to be dirty. Remove and wash out with carb cleaner and compressed air as all the other jets do too. The ones in the air horns too. Air screws are out 1 1/2 turns if the motor is in good shape' The screws in the sides are plugs that let you hook up your vacume gauges to sync the carbs. with all the vacume matched up then adjust the air jets then re sync the air then resync till any change makes it worse then ride it to see what you got their more senitive with the idle set low and it keeps to have a strong fan on the motor as sitting still with the motor out of tune till you get it right makes a lot of heat. When its right the sync gauges are on the same numbers and you hit the gas just some they all move together to the same number and hold RPM's just fine staying on the same numbers as if it won't do it the exhaust valves may be too tightand as it heats up everything changes and if you ride it it ca smooth out as the temp comes down with speed and the lash will open a little. Too tight and it changes too much to keep the tune.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific WATERCRAFT. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

If looking for an electrical schematic this site will not help. You will need a service manual for that.

The rectifier has no effect on the ignition system if the battery is fully charged. If you have access to a test light or voltmeter, check for power (12 volts) at one of the coil side-connections with the key turned on. If no voltage at either coil connection, then power is not coming from key switch. Check plug connections at key switch--may be loose or corroded from water entry. Do headlights, horn, starter work? Key switch should have one "always hot" connection which comes from battery. Wire colors should match through each connector. Hope that helps.

Sounds like you have cracked coils. If they are the original ones that came with the bike I would change them. They are a known problem with these bikes.

I've never been a big fan of automotive oil in a bike. That being said, maybe the Castrol can be used in bikes too I don't know. Anyhow, hopefully someone will be along that can better answer that part of your question. There have been many discussions pertaining to what oil to use. Drop a PM to OilDoc. He can probably answer that question very quickly for you. If this was a car, I'd say that the thermostat was stuck. Maybe start there.

the 3M protective film works really well, I have it on the nose of my GTI. It will add some sheen, but I highly reccomend it