20 Most Recent 1981 kawasaki KZ 1300 A3 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

the 3M protective film works really well, I have it on the nose of my GTI. It will add some sheen, but I highly reccomend it

i have no wiring loom on my kawasaki kdx 125 i belive its a 1999-2000 reg it has upside down forks if thats a help. all i want is a spark as it will be a traker. can anyone help???????

Needs valve shems replaced or adjusted. Dirty oil can also cause it to do that.

Hi will...this is a job you can't afford to make mistakes on, only to find out later the hard way, worse case would be an accident and you are injured.... I don't know what parts you have now, or how it was taken apart. You should have upper and lower head bearings, several washers, flat & star, some bushings and seals, retainers and lockdown, dustcover...also bearing races. Are the new bearings tapered or non? Have the old bearing races been removed or still on the shaft? I recommend you get a shop manual and follow step by step instructions, clean, lube and torque everything to factory specs. The proper torque is VERY important ... better to be safe than sorry when it comes to steering head repairs...good luck, i hope this helps

I think that this is probably as good as you're going to find on the net for free or otherwise.
Cheers,
Dave

http://www.scribd.com/doc/46058926/KZ1000-KZ1100

Carb sync should be equal on all carbs. If you are refering to the mixture screw settings, they should be 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.

cover needs to be removed and a new gasket fitted

I have read that older Kawasakis didn't actually have paint code numbers. You might try
http://www.paintworkz.com

If the "pods" are meant to be direct factory replacements, then no jetting is needed.
Filters like K&N will come with instructions if any jetting is needed for their installation.
You'll need to check with the manufacturer of the "pods" - since you didn't provide the make/model of them here, I can't say for sure if they require a jet adjustment, replacement, or if you don't have to do anything.

If you replaced your fork seals with" Leak Proof "fork seals, take them off and throw them away , forget the warranty they will only give you another pair of bad seals. Go to the local dealer (or on line) and get a set of the original manufacturers seals and put them on. Be sure to inspect the fork tubes for scratches ,damage, pock marks,burr on the end of the tube(scratch), or foreign material that needs to be cleaned off like bugs , tar, epoxy,etc. (so it does not damage the new seals). If you have chrome flaking off the tubes or other damage you will have to replace the affected tube. Also make sure that you did not damage the seals when you installed them.

Clymer make alot of manuals for Bikes / ATV ect clymer.com

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..

IGNITION SYSTEM for Kawasaki GT750 1992 # KAWASAKI - Online Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue (bike-parts-kawa.com)

We are in North America, so this link might work better for you than it does for me. I can only find a Parts Catalogue and an Owner Manual. https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+kaze+zx130+service+manual ..

I'm assuming you have already checked the actual bulb is still OK? The bike uses a 'twin element' bulb so the tail light element might still work but the brake light element has blown. It's designed to be two bulbs in one so it takes up less space.On a lot of vehicles some electrical features share a fuse and only some of them are marked on the fuse box lid. Has anything else stopped working? On some Kawasaki bikes the brake light shares a fuse with the horn and the tail light so if the fuse has blown all three won't be working. Check the fuse labelled as the Horn to see if that has 'Popped'.*NOTE* ONLY replace fuses with one of the SAME Amp rating as lower 'A' fuses will blow and higher 'A' fuses won't protect your electrics.Bulbs and fuses are usually cheap to buy so you could replace them anyway before thinking it's going to be a 'Big' repair.