20 Most Recent 1980 kawasaki KZ 1300 A2 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

you will need one quart or one liter of synthetic high performance suspension fluid [fork oil]. go to any autozone store and they will sell u what u need.

Angela, do you have a Clymer, Hayne, or service manual for the bike? If not you should get one, there is a lot of valuable information in there even if you don't do all the work yourself.

Replacing the fork seal requires putting the front end in the air, disconnecting everything from the front wheel (brake lines, speedometer cable if there is one), and dropping the wheel and fork tubes CAREFULLY to separate the two pieces of the fork tubes. Then grab the old seal and replace it with the new seal.

This short description is a VERY abbreviated and simplified version. It's not hard once you have done it a couple times but be very careful not to bend anything in your forks. They have springs inside them too. Change the oil while you are in there. Usually 10 or 15 weight fork oil but look in your manual. If you can't find a manual post again with your bike's year and we will see what we can come up with.

This link will give you some idea where to begin...

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/ShopmadeCarbSyncGauge/gauge.html

you will probably need two sets of gauges to do a six cylinder as most synch sets are fours or two's..

The engine was probably run at too high of a speed, and perhaps scored the cylinder walls, or worse, damaged some engine bearings. That would increase friction which would make idling hard. Rotate the engine by hand, or through the transmission, with ignition switch OFF. Are there any tight spots in the motor rotation? You may have to put the tranny in one of the higher gears, assuming it is a manual shift tranny. Good luck! Do you run Lucas Oil Treatment in the machine? If not, you should!

Yes same model.

The motorcycle has most likely been in storage with untreated gas left in the carb(s). This can lead to clogged jets and a stuck float causing it to flood. If this isn't the case then it's possible that the float height adjustment is improperly set and causing the flooding. Which ever the case to properly correct the situation is to remove clean and adjust the carb.

the float levet needs to be adjusted, make it shut off fuel faster, and check the jet sizes, should be atleast 1 to 2 sizes larger than stock, to match up with your higher lift cam.

Go to www.kawasaki.com
They have a drop down menu on the left for owner info and repair info. Select one of these and they will guide you to a window for entering the VIN. You can find the VIN on the front of the frame, on a plate just under the handle bars. Enter VIN - if this doesn't tell you the year then click on contact us and enter the VIN there - they'll get back to you with the requested info.
Hope this helps!!

Change your spark plugs , and gap to spec . Also check coil for cyl that you think is cutting out
be very careful put your hand over end of exhaust pipe you think is giving problem . Also if bike has been sitting with old gas , replace gas and filters. you will be proud of your self for doing so.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/kawasaki-atv-kfx-700-ksv700-a1-2004/o/m3587#sch315442
here try this site.

Babbitt's looks like they have the regulator. I hope your regulator is the lower priced one. Aside from that, Google " motorcycle salvage yamaha " and see what you can find. Be sure the salvage yard gives you one matching your original one. The 2 extra wires on the high priced unit should be color coded. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..

IGNITION SYSTEM for Kawasaki GT750 1992 # KAWASAKI - Online Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue (bike-parts-kawa.com)

We are in North America, so this link might work better for you than it does for me. I can only find a Parts Catalogue and an Owner Manual. https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+kaze+zx130+service+manual ..

I'm assuming you have already checked the actual bulb is still OK? The bike uses a 'twin element' bulb so the tail light element might still work but the brake light element has blown. It's designed to be two bulbs in one so it takes up less space.On a lot of vehicles some electrical features share a fuse and only some of them are marked on the fuse box lid. Has anything else stopped working? On some Kawasaki bikes the brake light shares a fuse with the horn and the tail light so if the fuse has blown all three won't be working. Check the fuse labelled as the Horn to see if that has 'Popped'.*NOTE* ONLY replace fuses with one of the SAME Amp rating as lower 'A' fuses will blow and higher 'A' fuses won't protect your electrics.Bulbs and fuses are usually cheap to buy so you could replace them anyway before thinking it's going to be a 'Big' repair.