20 Most Recent 1975 kawasaki Z1B Questions & Answers

Try lightly oiling the inside of the speedo cable, it can be pulled out of it's casing to make it easier.

Not a 100% but I think the 'G' is a reference to a part number in the parts books. This guy is building a Z1 and tries to explain what the G means halfway down the page, maybe you can understand what he's on about. https://www.z-power.co.uk/merchantmanager/view_information.php?pId=83

Your local library may have a book about that bike. It's a long shot but worth a try. If you can't find it there then you may have to break down and buy the book online. Hope this helps. Best of luck.

make sure the piston in the master is going all the way back past the bleed orifice, if it ddoesn't go all the way back the system willl build pressure through heat

There is a little rub bar on points that wears down and limits adjustment on points.Sounds like you need new points.

A bit more info would help, but they used to need cam chains fairly regular, and the guides can wear

its a fuel problem, recheck the carbs and check for possible vacuum leaks

The float is either not closing fully due to a bit of trash preventing it from fully sealing or the float is stuck open. Another possibility is that the float has a pinhole in it and no longer floats. Remove the float when you clean the carb then check it. It should be light as a feather and have nothing but air inside it. If the float is bad, it looks like Babbitt's has them. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

I really need to be honest with you. The bike is not worth fixing. Finding parts would be a nightmare. You will put more money into the bike, $3500 or so, than anyone will ever pay for it. The valves will need a workover, the pistons will need to have the rings freed up, The cylinders will need a hone or a fresh bore job along with new oversize pistons and rings, gas tank will be rusted internally, and the carbs will need to be cleaned or replaced. The shop doing the repairs, if you can find one willing to do the repairs, will be charging around $1500 labor. Now, is the transmission all okay or does it have a bent shift fork or two? I could go on and on with the repairs needed. I really hate to see a bike like yours. One part of me says " Hey, I could fix it up '. Another part of me says " Better to just let the dream die than waste the time and money. " Again, sorry about having to tell you this. Please rate my answer.

Hi,
there is an exellent company called RS Bike Paint Ltd who will be able to provide you with an exact match of the colour you need in spray cans or in tins, if thats what you require.Their contact details can easily be found on the internet.
Best regards
recondite08

it should be on the right side just behind the last cylinder on top of the trans. you may have to pull off the chain cover to access it for removal

please rectrifier

check with old bike barn.com thats where i get most of my parts

when mine leaked on my 87 cbr, i just went to a salvage yard looked at three sets of carb banks, i asked the guy were they all off of working bikes at the time and he said yes, so i picked the best of the bunch took it home and took the bowls out there was a lot of varnish in it and spray cleaned everything else up, and i also readjusted the pilot screws because when i took those out they were really dirty. i gave it a 1/4 turn more than factory and boy it runs great now. $200 bucks and about 5 hours to install..the reason it took so long is not hooking up the throttle cables its getting the carbs into those old harddened rubber manifold tube.

the 1975 Z1B is a 4 stroke, 4 cylinder, 900cc engine

Off hand I would suggest, check your fuel system delivery first, then your electrical system. Nothing doing with your timing if you have set it correctly in the first place.

the internal shift fork is worn or loose inside the trans

thuroly inspect wiring for age and bad connections-what appears good may be bad itz an ol bike -physical things wear like us.look over fuses too.there r many manuals on classic bikes in library etc

The only thing that COULD happen is a lack of oil. Is an oil line plugged on the shaft or a collar?

To remove the old cable first shorten the mid-cable adjuster to give as much free play as possible. If you need more free play screw in the adjuster at the clutch lever as much as possible and line up the slots so you can disconnect the cable from the clutch lever. Then remove the shift lever, and possibly the left footrest if needed to remove the front sprocket cover. Remove the cotter pin and disconnect the cable from the clutch release lever. Make a note of the routing of the old cable so you can replace it. Install the new cable with a new cotter pin at the lower end first, and route it the same as the old cable. To adjust the new cable, shorten the mid-cable adjuster as much as possible. At the clutch lever, turn the adjuster in and leave about 1/4" of threads showing between the locknut and the lever body. With the front sprocket cover still off, loosen the locknut on the clutch release lever and back the screw 3 or 4 turns. Turn the clutch adjusting screw in until it becomes hard to turn and then back it off 1/2 of a turn and tighten the locknut. Now lenghten the mid-cable adjuster until there is no free play and tighten the locknuts. Check that the lower end of the cable is fully seated in it's socket. At the clutch lever, turn the adjuster in so you have 1/16" free play, and tighten the locknut. Replace the front sproket cover and the shift lever and footrest.