20 Most Recent 1984 Honda VF 750 S Questions & Answers

the relay has failed or wiring to it-or the starter button is history-r ur batt connecs sound-dont replace any more parts until u know

If you've bled them and no more air is coming out. And your clutch plates are all good and set correctly. It could be debris in the slave cylinder, but you have replaced it so maybe not. Could be that you are using the wrong fluid. Might actually be your master cylinder, there shouldn't be a lot of pressure at the handle. It isn't like your front brakes. Which when pulled on at rest go hard. Your clutch lever will and should, go all the way in, with some resistance. If it doesn't then, your master cylinder or clutch plate springs might be defective. Another thing to consider is your lines, if they are the old rubber type, it is possible that they have collapsed internally and you might need new ones. A good way to check is to grab a hold of the line and squeeze your clutch lever, if you feel the line bulge, or pump outward. They are defective and need to be replaced. Because all that pressure is dissipating due to the expansion of the rubber.

Lose chain tidy it up if noise continue it's time for new chain

check power from battery to solenoid and the main power wire going to the fuse block... a good test light will help... oh, i suggest you unhook those new lights until you get the other issue resolved...

wont change gear and will sound like rocks rattleing in a coke can

10 w 40 semi synthetic

No not unless you split the chain(not reccomended),if your changeing the chain i would suggest new chain tensioners frt and rear cyl. they where known to go bad,i replaced mine in my interceptor and my v65 magna.

Please be a little more specific.

your fuses are going to be under the rear seat.

G'day.
If your trip meter stays at zero,but your speedo works(tells the speed still)then the problem is an internal gear inside the speeodo unit.Repair or replace the speedo is your only option.
Sorry I can't be of more help
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli

The cam timing is pretty straight forward: with the #1 cylinder at top dead center, the timing marks on the cam sprockets should be level with the valve cover gasket surface.
I can't imagine the engine would run at all if the cam timing were off, my suspicion is that the intake valves on the two forward cylinders are bent (explaining the blow-back through the carburetors). This can occur if the crankshaft is rotated without first having the cam timing set correctly.

Make sure your battery is fully charged & the terminals are clean & tight. If they are ok check your solenoid. If thats ok check starter. Hope this helps.

I have the same problem and cant find the answer did you ever find out what was wrong? Any help appreciated. ~Cheers

there is a one-way bearing behind the flywheel usually you change that and the two rings that slips on it

hi i would advise you to keep the shok standard as the combined riders & bike weight have all been calculated in to making the shock if you cant find a bracket get a pair made in a machine shop.

PLACE BIKE ON MAIN STAND OR PADOC STAND, REMOVE NUT FROM SPINDLE, UNDO12MM PINCH BOLT ON RH SIDE OF BIKE, NOTE ORDER OF SPACERS KNOCK OUT SPINDLE FROM WHEEL, REMOVE ALL BRAKE FIXINGS TO ALLOW WHEEL TO BE REMOVED FROM SHAFT DRIVE (DIFF) WHEN YOU HAVE REMOVED ALL THE ABOVE YOU WILL HAVE SPACE TO REMOVE, FROM DIFF BY PULLING, WITH BOTH HANDS SOME ROCKING ACTION MAY BE REQUIRED DEPENDING ON WHEN IT WAS LAST REMOVED IT MAY BE TIGHT ON THE SPLINE, WHEN REPLACING USE A GOOD GREASE TO PREVENT CORROSION..

Center stand the bike, remove the rear drive axle nut and bolt , take out the spacer, spin the nut off the brake cable , and unbolt the long brake panel stopper bar at the brake panel . Now you should be able to slide the panel out of the wheel and remove it. If there is not enough room to remove the panel , push it back in to the wheel and grab the whole wheel sliding it off the final drive spline. Now roll the wheel back far enough to pull the brake panel out of the wheel and replace the shoes . Be sure to regrease the final drive spline with MOLY60 grease available at the Honda dealer before sliding the wheel back on.