20 Most Recent 1983 Honda XL 125 R - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Go to AutoZone , they can antilize it to show what is causing the light to come on, with no charge.

clutch plates are sticking has nothing to do with lever replace your clutch plates

It sounds like you must have a relatively old bike to be dealing with breaker points. If you are sure your points are OK, I would suspect the condenser next. They are relatively inexpensive (if still available for your bike) and usually require only a mounting screw and a connecting screw to replace. Next, check the ignition coil and the high tension wire to your spark plug. Of course, I'm assuming that you are working with a good spark plug.

sounds like a blocked or restricted idle jet

their could be a lot of problems plugs plug wires and your carburator

Steve. While I would never tell anyone to bypass a safety switch. You can usually pull it off and wrap it in electrical tape. That way you are not riding while trying to hold it down. Sometimes you can jump the wires across each other to bypass the switch too. But it depends if the switch is a closed or open switch. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

has the bike sat for awhile if so the point will need cleaned

Possibly, but you can short it out to prove the switch. try pulling the clutch in when you start. The stand cut out should only cut the engine if the bike is in gear.

hi...put kickstand up 1st befor putting in gear....as this how bigger hondas work its a safety thing so u carnt ride off with side stand down...but cuts engine if kickstand still down & then wont start as you in gear.....even if kickstand up wont start in gear!!...hope this helps

If you haven't messed with the camshaft and / or the ignition timing, and the bike was running previously, chances are that the cam timing is just fine. The usual cause for kickback is a burned intake valve. All that needs to be done is to pull the head and then re-seat the valves.

Should be 120-140 psi when fresh. If the intake valve was tight for a while, it may have burned the valve or seat and it may not seal. What you're experiencing is common to all old honda 4 strokes. They never blow up, they just get tired. When they don't idle anymore, it's time to freshen up the top end and lap the valves.Carburator function is dependant on vacuum, which is directly ralated to compression. These motors are really easy to work on, the parts are still available too so don't be afraid to tear it down. I've built a lot of SL/XR motors, and have all the manuals so if you have any Q's while rebuilding it let me know.Good luck!

old or new might need to be broke in from riding or need to be rebuilt if old and abused also check gear oil level

You punch a pin out and connect it to the new chain and turn the engine untill the old one is out and the new chain in, then refit the joiner

Your XL125 ignition system is designed to run off of battery power. You can remove all the lights but need to leave the battery, regulator, rectifier, and appropriate wiring in place. It is not designed to run like an ATC 110 (no battery) or a 2 stroke where you can run a single wire to a kill switch and down to the coil to power the spark plug. Put the harness, the regulator,the rectifier,and the battery back in and you should be in business.

Higher than normal voltage readings while the bike is running is due to a faulty voltage regulator.

Before you try to tackle a manuel cleaning of the carb, try this. Purchase a can of SeaFoam and add it to the fuel in your tank. Setting on the bike, lock down the fromt brake and rock the bike back and forth to mix the fuel and the additive. put at least a hundred miles on the bike with this mixture. If it hasn't improved, then consider the manuel cleaning of the carb, If it has improved, continue riding with the SeaFoam/fuel mixture. I use 1/4 can of SeaFoam every time I fuel, and don't have any problems with gummed carbs.

There should be 3 marks on the flywheel. As the flywheel turns counterclockwise, the first mark is the full advance timing mark. The next mark is the BTC timing mark. the third mark is the TDC mark. Set the points to .015 gap then use a timing light while rotating the base plate to line up the BTC mark at idle speed, 600 rpm. Now check the full advance timing mark at around 2000 rpm. The idle timing is not as important as the full advance timing. Hopefully the spark advancer is in good condition. Please rate my answer. Thanks!

That is different, a motorbike with a reverse gear. Is it the V8 Honda?
The switches in the gearbox ground the lights so there is a wiring fault from the power bypassing the lamps. The power should go through the lights and to the switches.

You might try tradebits.com or payloadz.com thier prices are not bad and it is an instant download. Prices usally range between 10-20 dollars sometimes cheaper and sometimes alittle more depending on what manual you are looking for. The manuals are also usually factory manuals.