20 Most Recent 1983 Honda XL 125 R - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Looky here and get the manual


http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

manual will help

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

Ha ha .Are you from oz?The needle and seat in the carbies are stuck open.If the bike was ok beforehand and this just happened,there is some **** caught in the n and s.If the bike was sitting for a while,pull the carb off and give it a good clean.1st thing to try is to give the carby a whack.This may unseat any small **** and/or get the n and s to reseat itself.Hope this helps

hi, this bike has no points it uses cdi ignition which has no servicable parts replace only see link below. thanks paul

Ignition / Starting
CDI / kick http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/Honda/honda_xl125r%2083.htm

Valve lash settings for xl 125 Honda is .002 inch intake and .002 exhaust as well.

NICE BIKE, AS FAR AS I CAN REMEMBER IT IS HELD ON WITH 2 BOLTS, UNDER THE REAR MUDGUARD, ONE ON EACH SIDE, REMOVE THESE BOLTS LIFT UP THE BACK OF THE SEAT AND PULL THE SEAT BACKWARDS AWAY FROM THE BIKE, THE EARLY ONES HAD THE BOLTS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE FRAME, IF YOUR SEAT HAS A PLASTIC BASE I THINK YOU WILL FIND THE BOLTS AS PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED UNDER THE REAR MUDGUARD.

All XL Hondas are 4 stroke.CR is their 2 stroke range

if it create backfire the timing is not set properly, put the timing mark T of the flywheel to the center of the hole of the crankcase, be sure your in power stroke position.how to know that your in power stroke position get the cover of intake and exhaust valve then put the T of the flywheel on the center of the hole, then move the flywheel back and forth if you see that your valve is moving turn the flywheel another turn 360 degress and check the valve will not move that is already power stroke. that"s the time you can set your timing, center T on the hole and then the cam sprocket has a 0 put it on the top there is slash on the top of your cylinder center it.

1.prepare materials needed such as:

• An allen wrench or screwdriver (for fairing removal, if necessary.)
• An oil filter wrench (for removing the oil filter.)
• The appropriate crush washer for your oil drain plug-- this can be purchased from a hardware store or motorcycle service shop.
• A pair of needle-nose pliers, in case the oil filler cap is hard to reach or tightly screwed on.
• An adjustable socket wrench.
• Clean rags.
• The proper amount of manufacturer-recommended engine oil.
• A new, manufacturer-approved oil filter.
• A funnel

2. Unscrew the oil filter caps 3. Remove the oil rain plug 4. Replace and remove the crush washer 5. Clean the oil drain plug 6. Remove the oil filter 7. remove and clean plastic mesh filter 8. Lubricate the O-ring of the new filter and attach it to the engine 9. Replace Oil drain plug and plastic mesh filter then pour oil 10. Check oil level

The earlier bikes are 0.002inch or 0.05mm. I believe your model will be the same.
Gavin
Australia

lower for legs there should be a drain bolt for each leg do one side at a time.
Take the top fork cap off be careful the top cap is spring loaded get a pan to catch the oil,remove the drain bolt let it drain.reolace the drain bolt then you can add your new fork oil,check your owners manual for the proper amount and weight oil you need to replace, replace the fork cap.
repeat steps on the other fork.

START WITH A NEW PLUG , OIL, AIR FILTER, THEN SET YOUR TIMING AT TDC ON THE FLY WHEEL THAT'S IT A FULL TUNE UP

TALK YOUR SIDE COVER OFF ON THE SFITER SIDE AND THEN TAKE A SCEWDRIVER AND TAKE OUT YOU PLUG.THEN PUT THE SCEWDRIVER IN THE CYL PUSH THE KICK STARTER DOWN SLOW TILL THE PISTON COME TO THE TOP.THEN LOOK ON YOUR SIDECOVER ON THE FLYWHEEL AND YOU WILL SEE WERE IT SAY'S TDC. THAT'S TDC

adjusting the valves simple to do pull the spark plug and the 2 inspection covers top of the head.remove the 2 inspection plugs lower left side engine cover small round one and the larger one. Use a i believe a 14 mm deep socket with a 3/8 breaker bar and rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise watch the rear rocker arm go down as it starts to come up look in the small inspection hole if you have a flashlight rotate it slowly until you see a line with the t mark before it in the small hole stop it there that is top dead center then you can set your valve settings.

Join the Honda Riders Club and get access to a generic manual. Get an upgraded membership (pay the fee) and get access to the manual for your Honda XL 125.

http://hrca.honda.com/

If you are rewinding multiple stators I would expect some other source of the problem like a short somewhere. An XR 200 stator may work as the motors are similar. I would trust a used Honda stator more than any rewound one, usually they are completely trouble free and will last longer than the rest of the motor

when your changing the oil in the front forks you want all the weight off the front end from there you will take out the bolts on the bottom and let it drain what ever you do do not let the front wheel hit the ground. once it is all done draining put the bolts back in and go to the top of the forks there will be a big bolt that you take out in which thats where you put ur fluid in!

You have a power surge ,,regulator are fitted to prevent this get your regulator checked out by your main dealer.

Yes and its very hard to exsplain in words but you need a strong wire and a lot of luck.

Your best place for a free one is the public library. They usually carry repair manuals in the self help section.
Next suggestion would be Ebay for a low cost one.