20 Most Recent 1982 Honda CX 500 A Questions & Answers

I had the same problem. I found the main wire connect (under the speedometer) around the sterring column had came loose. Very hard to re-connect but when I did everything worked perfect.

1st, Your alternator is charging real heavy. the lower yhe voltage the hidher the amps. 2nd, yes, Turn on one and the other dima is indicarive of a poor ground which would in turn affect the charging rate. Nowm The bad ground is more than likely the battery cable on the negative. But, Check the other end of the cable also. good luck- Ned

Use a volt meter and see how many volts (if any) youre getting at the starter when you hit the button. If youre not getting any,then the solenoid is bad. If you are,then the starter motor is fragged,or the motor is locked up,or hydrolocked. Try pulling the spark plugs out and see if it turns over.

Shock needs to be replaced. Do yourself job

backfire can come out carb or exhaust--could be runnin to rich-is the float level set rite-jets may be wrong too--1st chec spark plug quality-wires-coil etc for correct fire--but since it kiks in then probly the high speed jet is fine

If the key won't turn in the ignition, it could be for a couple of reasons: Often this happens when the steering is locked by the ignition lock with the front wheels turned aside (e.g. when parking on a hill) or when one of the front wheels is pushed against something (e.g. curb stone). In this case, try turning the steering wheel left and right while gently jiggling the ignition key - this might help.Another possibility is that there is a problem with the ignition lock or the key itself. This happens, the key and the lock mechanism wear over time. Try to use a spare key. If nothing works, your local dealer is the best place to call.Mercedes Parts.

Take out the tail light bulb and carefully look at the contact plate. Some times a contact will sink or melt into the plate and not hit the bulb contact. If the plate is cocked at an angle see if you can wiggle it straight. I have taken the contact plates out of other tail lights and turn signals and replaced them in my Honda tail lights when the plates have gone bad. Also check that all of the green grpund wires are plugged in.

There has been storage problems with the fuel we now have with ethanol. When storing or parking for more than a week or two, the fuel sets in the tank and carb and plugs jets and small passages. Sometimes, and I say sometimes, putting SeaFoam, Lucas, or other carb and fuel injection cleaner in the tank and running it at a high idle will help. When you are able to put in gear and it keeps running, ride it several miles ensuring it will keep running.

If the cleaner doesn't do the trick, then the carb or carbs need to be dissasembled and cleaned.

Speak to your phone provider for connection.

The best repair manual comes from Honda. Honda service manuals can be ordered on line from Helminc.com.(good expanded parts and specs) The Haynes manual is probably the next best choice (Good detail You may have to translate some British terminology). I would avoid the Clymer manual (least amount of detail and missing important specifications (electrical and engine)).

Hi the tail light can stay on if the ignition is turned past the off position till the park position, this provides a park light .
The lack of starting could be many problems, like a clutch or side stand switch, and the battery may be on the way out. So depending on if the bike is complete, you will need to start with a tune up, service, carb clean and get out the multi meter, to start checking the start system wiring.

Check the selector is in the right place. It can be fitted the wrong side and then it won't return to neutral from first gear.
Hope that fixes it.

If your clutch is slipping after you let out the lever (just for a second then it grabs) you need a new clutch cable. This is a fairly common problem on the CX500.
If you are not sure how to put the clutch together you can look at an online microfiche to see a break down of the clutch. bikebandit.com or babbitsonline.com are good sites to check.

Rear wheels are basically the same as front wheels except now you have some sort of drive like a chain, belt, or shaft. Simply remove the axle nut, loosen any pinch bolts and pull the axle out. On shaft drives and some chain drives the wheel will pull loose from the drive and come off leaving the drive portion attached to the swing arm. On others you have to remove the chain or push the wheel far enough forward to slip the chain off the sprocket. Now the wheel should come off to the rear and slip past the fender, at least sometimes it does !
In the old days they realized that sooner or later you, the owner/rider would have to take these wheels off. Now-a-days I guess they figure you will just get out the cell phone and call for help because a lot of bikes don't come with center stands. If yours doesn't have a center stand, you will have to figure out some way of holding the rear wheel off the ground. You may also have to remove mufflers and/or shocks, so you can get the wheel out. If the wheel has drum brakes, you will need to remove the bolt that anchors the brake to the frame. This anchor prevents the brake from spinning around the wheel when you apply the brake. Also, remove the brake rod adjusting nut. This nut adjusts the length of the brake rod. This length controls the amount of free play in the rear brake pedal. As you remove the axle, watch for any spacers. These spacers center the wheel in the swingarm. There may be one, two, or none.
A thing to remember on disk brakes. If you work the brake lever when there is no disk between the brake pads, they tend to pop out... not good. Maybe put a piece of steel or wood between the pads so any unauthorized brake usage does no harm. Some bikes (Certain models of Ducati, BMW, Honda and a few others) have a single side swing arm. the wheel is held on by one, three or four lug nuts or bolts. Remove any saddle bags and mufflers that are in the way, unscrew the lug nuts or bolts and remove the wheel.

it has to be the electronics ,either the crank sensor or the ignition module ,possibly even a coil or a loose wire ,but this is a awarkard question because i can throw a lot of things as to why it stopped but the first thing i would check is the fuel tank shut off ,check for fuel coming out of the tank and the rubber seal hasnt perished and blocked itself

The steering stem nut may be loose or the upper and lower bearings may be bad.

Could you take a moment and rate my answer? Thanks!

Sounds to me like a bad coil. You may have to just replace it to find out. You can ohm it but this test can be inconclusive.

make sure you run a piece of a wire wheel through the small pilot jet and be sure its clear

The Power Steering has failed. There has been a factory recall for a suddenly failing electrical steering shaft, that could cause the rider to loose control. This does not have to be your problem but anyhow either the electronics or the pump failed. Error codes or messages usually have to be erased by a simple reset procedure or disconnecting a plug, after repairs are done.