20 Most Recent 1974 Honda CB 200 Questions & Answers

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If you are talking about setting the ignition timing, it is not adjustable on your ATC 200. If you are getting a spark at the spark plug, that means the electrical ground for the ignition system is okay.
There are three things necessary for combustion: fuel, compression, and a spark (at the right time).
If it has been sitting (for a year or more) then you can bet that the carburetor is plugged up. This means that it must be disassembled and cleaned out. Make sure the jets are clear so that you can see light through them. That missing screw on the carburetor could be the idle mixture adjustment. It will not run without this, so replace it. That takes care of the fuel part of the equation.
Check the compression. With the throttle held wide open (and the choke open) you've got to see at least 140 psi on the compression gauge. If the compression is low, adjust the valve tappet clearances. This is a bigger process than I can explain here, so I suggest that you get the shop manual for your ATC 200.
You can also take a look at the spark advancer. It is under the left top cylinder head cover. Make sure there's no rust in there and everything moves freely. The red dust you describe that came from the CDI box was most likely rust. So make sure everything is dried out (spraying some WD-40 in these places will dry them out and keep rust from reforming).
Finally, try a new spark plug, They are easily damaged or fouled and can cause backfiring when trying to start the engine. My best advice to you is check the above items - and get the shop manual.
By the way - the spark plug normally has about 50,000 volts fed to it from the coil. As long as you've got a nice blue spark at the plug, you're good.

The power would not be changed. If the distance between the intake ports is the same, you should be able to do the swap. That air filter will need to be changed also. Before you spend money, how about spending a little bit of time instead? Remove the carbs then remove the float bowl at the bottom of one of the carbs. Only work on one carb at a time. Remove the air and the throttle screws. Now use spray carb cleaner to clean the inside of the carb. Spray into every fitting and drill hole you can find. Spray from both ends of a fitting or hole if possible. Put the float bowl back in place and then put the air and throttle screws back in. Turn them inward until they LIGHTLY seat. Noe turn each of them outward one and one half turns. Now clean the other carb the same way...
Mount the carbs back on the bike. First, synchronize the two carbs so that the slide in the center of both carbs begins to raise at the exact same moment when the throttle is twisted. The motor is turned off for this adjustment. Use a mirror to see the slides when the throttle is gently turned. Adjust the cable fitting on top of the carb that is latest to begin to lift, turn the fitting outward. Start the bike and then adjust the throttle screws equally to set the idle speed. It would be a good idea to balance the carbs also. I can tell you how in a reply. Answers that are too long get cut off by Fixya.

Could very easily be so. Does this unit have points and condensers in it. Could be the timing chain wasn't timed properly when the cam gear was installed. Easy to check without having to take too much apart.

First of all, take the cover of the fly wheel and you should see a couple marks there. One may have an F and the other could be a T, align the T with the boss mark on the side of the engine that'll be right along the edge of the flywheel. When you find this, then take the cover of the top of the side of the engine and get access to the cam gear. There also you should see a mark but no letters, only a dent put there by the factory. If you locate that then locate the boss mark on the engine head itself. Now once you have determined all of this. Put a wrench on the bolt keeping the flywheel on usually it'll be a 17mm socket and turn the engine up on it compression stroke. Once at top dead center (when the piston is up as far as it'll go before starting to go down again) on the compression stroke (not the exhaust stroke) the mark on the flywheel with the T on it and the dent on the cam should align with the boss on the engine head. If it doesn't it's out of time. You have to remove the cam chain, then realign the cam gear until the dent lines up with the boss mark then re install the chain and make sure you don't have any slack after you re install. If they align your good to go. If not then you need to do it again. To determine the difference between top dead center on the compression stroke and TDC on the exhaust stroke, you'll need to remove both valve adjustment covers. One in front and one in back of the cylindere head. Turn the flywheel again with the wrench until you see the front valve open and close and then keep watching until the rear valve next to the carburetor come open and then close. Remove the spark plug and put a small straight screwdriver down in the plug hole and then gently continue to turn the flywheel bolt after the rear valve closes until you feel the screwdriver moving. Keep a very close watch on this. When the screwdriver won't go no higher and you notice it to start to go down a little, then turn it back a little until the piston can't go any higher, Now you have the compression stroke you'll need to align all the marks.

Good luck
Skidooer

Good luck
skidooer

i would change the headlight because if one side of the bulb lights up that means that the lower beam is bad or just check your fuse you may have two fuses to that connection

yes definetly the residue eventually gets in your engine and its not made for that

The CB200 may be able to do better when new however being only 200CC and the age of the machine this may be its best. You could check the compression to see what you have; if these are lower there would be some lose of power there. Also the carbs may need a once over, this too may get you more. However I would not expect to cruise at 65MPH with a 200CC, she'd be running pretty hard. The redline may not be unitil 9300RPM however the engine lacks the torque/power to push it beyond where you're at now, the 9300RPM may be used to get you there. In theory if you could take it out in max. gear to 9300RPM the bike would do @ 110MPH; many 750CC bikes cannot do this.
Great bike though, should treat you well, enjoy the ride and the gas mileage...
Tom

Undo all the bolts. At the exhaust ports and the junction to the mufflers(silencers) and remove the bolts that secure the mufflers to the frame near the passenger foot pegs. It is really easy. I am disabled and even I can do it.

Try Steve's Cycle Salvage located in Tifton , Georgia.

http://www.stevescyclesalvage.com/ Call him on the phone as he says he's usually too busy to mess with e-mail. But, you can try it if you wish. Good Luck on finding your parts.

Hello. Take that battery to any auto parts store and have it tested. This is a free service. If the battery is bad replace it. Joe

Make sure you have a fully charged battery. The ignition system on a Honda draws it's power from the battery not the charge coils. Start by replacing your points and condenser. You probably have shorted or grounded points which translate to no spark at the plug. New spark plugs and spark plug caps (caps unscrew off of the end of the wire) will also increase the efficiency of the spark.

these are for the overflow and do not connect to anything but just hang loose and should be left so.....these are for if the carbs were to flood,excess fuel would be carried away safely and not splash on to a hot engine or even the rider...hope this helps

Move the clip on the jet needle lower on the needle. This will help with the flat spot by giving fuel earlier. The black smoke is a rich fuel mixture. Check to see that the carb kit had stock jet sizes. Be sure to synchronize the carb slides so they both begin to lift at the same exact moment.

If your bike will only run with the choke pulled then you need to go in the carbs and clean them out.Sounds like you simply have some stopped up needle jets or main jets so the bike isnt getting the right mixture of fuel and air to run on after it warms up.I just built an 81 CM400 for a girl and hers wouldnt even run with the choke on or off lol. The best and cheapest place to find parts is EBAY to be honest.There are tons of aftermarket bike parts sales on the internet ie: Bike Bandit,KZ parts and the like. I lowered hers by getting a shorter throw shock but you need to check your clearance under the fender so she doesnt bottom out from too short a shock. Good luck.

You have disturbed the settings of the fuel air mixture and so there is flooding in the cylinder. Now it is possible that the air screw and the idling screw was turned.
remove plug and pump out all the excess flooding by kick starter. Once all the fuelis dispelled turn the screw fully into and then unscrew about one and half times. This must be done for the air screw . The idling screw can be kept about one turn out.
Now start the engine and use the throttle screw to put the engine idle higher than idling speed. now turn the air screw to give a stable point --it will be around this settings.
once done correct the idling and set to correct ticking of the engine. make sure that the timing is correct, the plug gaps are set right.