20 Most Recent 2006 Gilera Runner VRX 200 Questions & Answers

Hi, Femi before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
What To Do If Your Motorcycle Doesn Start

2006 Gilera... | Answered on May 29, 2019

1.check your mechanical seal at the water pump
2.if leak athe engine pls check the gasket
3.your themorstat stuck and overheat and produce a power presure that push out the coolant(thermorstat location at the engine block)

2006 Gilera... | Answered on Jul 13, 2013

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher at hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slides back in the throat of the carbs, Move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

2006 Gilera... | Answered on Dec 30, 2012

******* χαχα

2006 Gilera... | Answered on Jul 29, 2010

their should be a gold nipple on the inlet manifold that pipe should be on that nipple get back 2 me my fend

2006 Gilera... | Answered on Apr 16, 2010

its sounds like its the rollers in the drive system...they wear flats on them!!...& this is why you wont have drive...it will be trying to like set off in 2nd gear insted of 1st....should be farily easy to sort...& not that expensive

2006 Gilera... | Answered on Mar 31, 2010

Go get a safety pin and curve the pointed end with a long nose pliers
enough to fit your ignition key. Then, straight it out enough for you
to move the curve end of the pin. Then insert the curve pointed end
to the ignition, until it take all the paper inside piece by piece. Pls
send your e mail and vote.
Another solution is to take the ignition key assembly off the case
and replace it with another.

2006 Gilera... | Answered on Sep 25, 2009

hi buddy the plug should be a
br9eix <iridium plug will last longer dearer
br9eg <racing type use
br9es <cheaper standard one
go on ebay and get these and the tyre should be 20-30psi but i would go inbeetween 25psi buddy

2006 Gilera... | Answered on Sep 24, 2009


Free manual download in alphabetical order...the runner is listed

2006 Gilera... | Answered on Sep 08, 2009

u can try to check properly at the key barrel holder which is a solid metal tube.there is a steel clips hape like rectangle u band shape.either at front or back at the metal tube holder.u hace to use a small torchlight to see it.it was hidden inside.u have to use a very small and thin yet strong flat screw driver or anything to peel or pull the pin out.but make sure u dont to major damage to the clip otherwise when u install the key barell back it wont hold your key barrel to the body back.

2006 Gilera... | Answered on Jul 08, 2009

put choke and start the bike in the morning

2006 Gilera... | Answered on Apr 18, 2009

Yes All motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner. Here's the formulation of WD-40: 80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene) 20% light lubricating oil and a bit of fragrance. Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics: Good Compatibility (OK for both static and dynamic seals) Buna-N (Nitrile) Chemraz Epichlorohydrin Fluorocarbon Fluorosilicone Kalrez Nitrile, hydrogenated Polyacrylate Teflon, virgin Mixed Compatibility (OK for static seals, but not for dynamic seals) Neoprene Vamac Fair Compatibility (OK for some static seals) Polysulfide Polyurethane, millable Poor Compatibility Butyl Ethylene-Propylene Hypalon Natural rubber Silicone Styrene Butadiene Consequently, WD-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor. Link: http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard%20Solvent If you clean with a soft brush and WD-40, and plan to follow-up with a chain lube, you can reduce chain lube sling-off if you first remove the oil residue that WD-40 leaves. This residue seems to prevent some chain lube formulations from sticking well to the chain.,,,

2006 Gilera... | Answered on Nov 10, 2008

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