20 Most Recent 2005 Gilera Runner VX 125 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Easy!
Just remove the exhaust muffler and remove the CENTER NUT of the rear wheel!

Its the really big bolt on the right hand side

check the wiring under the front mud grade there is a nother cover and it get cut

i have had the same problem i found that i had to lift the needle in the carb as once it get to hot the engine cuts out and i found by lifting the needle it helps but you will find that the needle has no way of ajustment all i did was use some small washers then put the needle back in the carb to get to the needle you have to remove the big black cover on top of carb

hope this helps good luck

Find the reg/rect. check the AC voltage going in, should be about 18-26v & 3000RPM. If you have voltage check the out put Red and frame should be above battery voltage.If not turn off engine and check voltage at reg/rect Red wire (+) and Black(-) if fitted could be conected through body to frame..It should be at battery voltage.if not check for burnt or dirty conectors on the red lead and or the black lead if fitted or the mounting bolt for the reg/rect.
If you have battery voltage and AC voltage at the reg/rect suspect the reg/rect. some units have an extra wire that can be an ignition feed that has power on it when the key is on, but sure these dont have it.

If you dont have AC voltage check the (usualy) yellow wire some can have 1 or 2 wires. If it has 2 wire check voltage across both, if it only has one check yellow and the frame.

Change the spark plug, that may help. <div>Regards</div>

Try using a size 10 metric thin walled socket drive to fit nut with a little force. Use plenty of WD-40, soak the nut and stud. Try to turn nut for 1/8 turn forward, spray WD-40 then turn bolt back until it feels that it is stuck, turn nut 1/2 turn forward, spray WD-40 and try again to unbolt, everytime it feels it is stuck move nut forward, spray WD-40 then try again to unbolt. It is a slow process as it to prevent stripping the rusted nut and stud. Have fun.

Although Im not familier with these bikes, find out where the water pump is and change the gaskets/seals for this. The pump is usual mechanically driven by the engine, and will have a seal to stop the oil/water mixing. Its a common problem with Yamahas liqued cooled RD bikes.

just check that the gear that fits on the end of the water pump shaft
and also drives the oil pump is turning the water pump shaft and not
just spinning on the end of it

take side casing off on engine then take variator off then change it

You can fit a 125 or 180 but you will need grind the engine mounts down - you'll also need to change your wiring loom along with the cdi and ignition unit - your better off putting a big bore kit on your 50 and change the variator and rollers etc - if it's speed your looking for i'd go with the big bore option - if set up correctly your 50 will kick the *** off and 125 - 180

the valve is on ... right? There may be a strainer or other kind of filter ... check it. If that is clear, remove the hose from the valve ... gas? if yes and still no run, remove the hose from the carb ... gas? still no run ... problem with the float or something else in the carb.

do u meen the code key you can swap chips over just put a needle through the tiny hole in the swing out chip holder u will no wot i meen my frend gd luck

Under the front fairing panel

Hope this helps (if so please mark as very helpful)

Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

What's your starter mechanism like?

make sure you have no broken wire, or one that is earthing when it shouldn't, could be a problem with the relay

yes this will require the 125 main jet pilot jet and needle vxr 180 only dna 180 i beleev is different

Could be slipping clutch

your clutch is not hooking upo and fibers are mostly gone and you metal may be heat checked and needs to be replace good luck
Mark
C.C. Motorsports
(361) 885-7787

sounds like the rollers or the belt has bust ..this is the drive system from the engine...if it runs & revs but does not move....i would be looking under the drive cover on the l/h side of the engine caseing...as its either a belt or roller problem....hope this helps