20 Most Recent 1985 Ducati 750 F1 Questions & Answers

ask at www.gawa-guzzi.de

you could restamp them with number punches, but it may look as if the bike has been stolen, so I would make sure you have all the correct paperwork in order and check with main roads first.

the only time I have seen worn numbers is they were worn out with an angle grinder

Here is a link to a place you can find the entire manual http://www.bevelheaven.com/

so according to his book my bike does not exist. The book that he is using is titled something like Ducati v twin restoration guide. He is a good mechanic but I would like to find out more before proceeding further with the restoration. Can anyone help ? Thanks in advancehe numbers on the frames and engines mean nothing when working out a model and age. In the factory engines were not matched to frames via their numbers they were simply put together. Any book that gives definite numbers for a model is full of sh!t. A good example is all the pics you see of crates of engines in no particular order. There was no need for an engine to match a frame number so they never went to the trouble. The engines were used in many models and bikes, including your era, the Cagive Elephant etc.... Your bike is probably correct, even though the book says it shouldn’t exist. The numbers for the books come from the first number to just the last number, and are not necessarily relevant for any number in between.,,,

from the solenoid to the battery. And also connected a new ground. I left the original ground cable in place and connected the new one to one of the bolts in the clutch cover. After measuring with a multimeter this was the best one I found. I used 16 mm thick power cable that's normally applied in cars. Twice as big as the stock wiring with huge connections for maximum contact. When I tried to start the bike it fired up like never before. Waaauw. Measured the battery voltage at 3000 rpm and read 13.7 V on the multimeter must be enough. I didn't bother to measure the regulator, cause the charging system seems to be working just fine. Took the bike for a spin around the block, stopped, shut it off and started right up again. Before the cable transplant , even getting it started with a warm engine was a hassle. Now you can really hear the starter click without effort. Also tested at high speed/revs, the rev needle doesn't jump up and down anymore. The dashboard light doesn't flicker anymore. Well, juuuust a little bit, but not more than it should. The clock didn't jump to 00:00 anymore. So I guess the faulty ground, corroded connections and the original wires were causing most of my problems. Luckily I have a week off from work next week, so I got all the time to test the bike. I even think I'll put the fairing right back on tomorrow morning, if the bike starts at first attempt after a cold night in the garage. It's sure a good test to build my confidence back up. Quite important if my bike should get me to work every morning. Thanks again for all the advice guys. I hope I'll still have good news in 3 or 4 days, after I properly tested my red fury. For everyone else who has read this thread. Keep your connections clean and change your stock wiring to bigger wires even if you don't have starting problems (yet)!,It does sound like the battery may not be holding it's charge very well. If it's not very recent it may be due for replacing. A 10W40 oils should be ok for both winter and summer and is what is specified by Ducati for temperatures down to -10C. Although a 5w40 might give the starter an easier time, I suspect that the real culprit is the battery.,,,

I know this is a maintenance question but I'm looking for a little local information. I went to clean my chain yesterday and noticed that it's way too long. There's a bit of kinking too so it's time to get a new chain. The chain maintenance info on this board seems pretty detailed and doesn't look too hard (lol perhaps I should mention that I'm a noobie and haven't worked on my bike much yet). Should I attempt this on my own? Any suggestions where in TO I should get the chain and tools? Or should I take the bike to Rev Cycle (any rough estimates on price)?,Depending on your skill and comfort level you can probably tackle this job OK, here are some rules (I'm making up early Saturday morning without the benefit of coffee) Buy the best quality chain you can buy, (x or o ring) If the chain is screwed chances are your sprockets are too (yeah I know $$$) It's a good time to go up in the rear or down in the front (sprocket teeth, don't do both) if your bike has a single swing arm forget it (tools stands etc too much hassle adjusting probably not worth it just take it too the dealer unless your very determined and are investing in the tools and time etc) otherwise no biggee. Now so your chain lasts don't over adjust, unsprung the chain will appear loose get some else to sit on the bike as you check the chain tension all the way through the suspension travel check chain and sprocket alignment (laser, eye ball whatever) sometimes shims or other pieces go missing (especially when chain have kinks or wear prematurely) chain wax is your friend, lube it hot and use a clean rag to get excess and clean sprockets.,,,

fouling plugs and backfiring. Runs much better at high RPM's. I realize that the problem is likley worn needle jets after reading through forums. I am just looking for a little direction on what to do exactly. I haven't messed with carbs much and am concerned with messing something up. I have a Haynes manual, but still am lost.,Hi, I have a 98 M750 that I have had for 8 years and it has done 110,000Klm (68,000 miles) when it had done about 20,000Klm it was doing the same thing as yours fouling plugs and running rough at low speeds, so I took it to a good dyno tuner and he found the bottom end rich and the top enp end lean, resetted the floats and rejetted all good again. So just find a good dyno tuner. Let me know how it is going after the tune up.,,,

quick story bought a 98 750 with 8000 k's on it and staintunes slip ons thinking i'll get some fun and good mileage. Anyway, it was running very rich and kept fouling plugs. So i thought i'd buy a dynojet stage 1 kit and aftermarket filter after reading some posts. Now its exact opposite, when i do a plug check its way too lean. After examining the jets it seems the mikuni originals are bigget than the new dynojet, so i swapped back, and colour of plugs is maybe slightly less white but still too lean. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated,You better go back and see what you missed. I know I had my carb bank on and off so many times I thought I was good at it. One time, I forgot to do up the clamps to the intake manifold. Ran really lean. What about your float height? Did you set it to the new specs to the proper side? It's the square sided float, not the crazy shaped one. Did you put the new needles in with all the washers? From the top down, it's the clip, then the plastic one, then the bigger steel shim. They all need to go in. You must have missed something as those kits usually run richer.,,,

When your 2016 Ducati X Diavel doesn't start, there are several steps you can take to try and diagnose and resolve the issue. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can follow: 1. Check the battery: Ensure that the battery is charged and in good condition. Check the battery connections to make sure they are secure and clean. If the battery is weak or faulty, consider charging or replacing it. 2. Ignition switch and kill switch: Verify that the ignition switch is turned on and the kill switch is in the "Run" or "On" position. Sometimes, these switches can accidentally get bumped or turned off, preventing the bike from starting. 3. Fuel level and fuel delivery: Confirm that there is enough fuel in the tank. Additionally, check for any clogged fuel filters or fuel lines that may be restricting fuel flow. If necessary, clean or replace these components. 4. Kickstand position: Some motorcycles have a safety feature that prevents the engine from starting if the kickstand is down. Ensure that the kickstand is fully retracted and try starting the bike again. 5. Spark plugs: Examine the spark plugs for any signs of fouling, wear, or damage. If needed, clean or replace the spark plugs according to the manufacturer's specifications. 6. Fuses: Inspect the fuses to see if any have blown. Replace any blown fuses with the appropriate type and rating. 7. Immobilizer system: If your Ducati X Diavel is equipped with an immobilizer system, ensure that the key you are using is programmed correctly and recognized by the system. Consult your owner's manual for specific instructions on the immobilizer system. If the issue persists after these steps, it is recommended to consult a professional Ducati technician or authorized Ducati service center. They will have the expertise and specialized diagnostic equipment to diagnose and resolve the problem with your 2016 Ducati X Diavel.

Go back to basics to figure this out. An engine needs 3 things to start and run. Air, Fuel and Spark. Remove any one of these and it won't start. Try this. What EXACTLY does it do when you press the start button -Nothing at all or a slow sluggish crank is most likely a flat or bad battery issue. Charge or replace the battery. Cranking at normal speed but not trying to start is possibly a spark supply issue. Test for spark at the plugs and work through the ignition from there. Cranking, coughing and trying but won't idle is commonly a fuel supply issue. Check you actually have fuel in the tank. Yes, I've made that mistake! I've also forgotten to open the fuel valve. Check you are getting fuel to the cylinders. A way to do this is by removing 1 plug wire and cranking the engine for 1 to 2 seconds. Remove the spark plug on that side and sniff it. A working set up and it'll smell of fuel. Refit the plug and the wire and repeat this for the other cylinder. From there work backwards through the fuel system checking the injector, fuel pump and the fuel pipe lines.

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Aparts store or dealership. Look on pinterest or utube also

You may likely have to program a new key as it has a chip. The SBB key programmer on Ebay is great for cars but not sure about bikes but perhaps! Make sure your model is available in the indications given by the SBB programmer site on Ebay.

Switch is worn . First take som rubbin alcohol and pour it on the switch. It can bring electrix back to life. But umay hav to buy part on acyclsalvage site or dealership

to check to see if its an electrical problem it the starter button it self find the starter relay take a wrench or a screw driver and make contact between the 2 copper posts that are sticking out from the relay if it turns over than you will know that it is the push button if it doesn't turn over than you know that its the starter. LARRY B

Clearance issues aside, you need the proper mounts. If they make them, they will work, aside from tank clearance issues. If they don't make the proper kit, just don't do it. Handlebars are not something to experiment with when you're traveling down the highway at 60+ mph. Ever had a simple grip come off? Not fun, trust me.

Change the spark plugs and it should work good