20 Most Recent 2003 ATK 260 Questions & Answers

you can try this site http://www.theunlockspot.com/ to get the reset codes for your phone. it provides codes at reliable rates.

you may have a cracked cyl. head or warped head...a crack in the cyl. is rare but does happen.....have a quality engine or machine shop inspect them for you..

carb needs to be cleaned and rebuilt

Try this: Open up the engine to expose the pistons and spray WD 40 in the cylinders. Give it a good 24 to 48 hours before trying to start it. Also, you might want to leave it lying directly in the sunlight for a couple days. I hope this will help you.

check the wiring on the plow, make sure that there are now niks in the wiring. if so repare. there is a short somewhere.

so I removed the stator and took it in to get a replacement. The shop tested it or me and found everything in working order. I have done the tests for the regulator/rectifier and it seems to be good. My manual tells me that the only way to test the rotors is to swap them out with new ones. should I not be able to tell if these rotors are magnetized without swapping them? The rotors that I have currently are original to the bike and do not seem to have any magnetic charge at all. When I took the stator in I was shown used rotors that they would sell me as a replacement but these also had no magnetic field to them. How can I tell without shelling out $80 bucks for used rotors that may or may not be good? And am I even on the right track??? I'm still only pulling 13.5 volts out of the charging system and I need help. I looked at the microfiche for your bike. the rotors are only magnetic when the field coild is energized. You do not have a permanent magnet rotor. so no magnetism when unenergized is normal.,

I was on my way home from work when I stopped at the stop light and when I went to take off my bike just died. It started right back up but as I gave it gas it would die again. I managed to roll it out of traffic into a parking space. I tried the choke the fuel valve, but nothing worked. It would idle, but as soon as I would give it some gas it would just sputter and die. I got a ride to my house where I got my truck and came back to my bike. I started it up and soon as I gave it some gas, it died. I started it up again and gave it some gas and then it started working just fine. I revved it a few times, but it wouldn't die again. I drove it home and didn't have a problem. It seems to be running fine now. What the heck?? It only has 693 miles on it. It has almost a full tank of gas. What could possibly be wrong?,It's fuel or air related. If your bike didn't have any issues at all, no minor symptoms until it fell on its face like that, I'd wager something worked its way loose. Could be something is preventing fuel from reaching the carbs or something rattled loose in your airbox or carb boots. If something blocked off your air filter it would show those symptoms, or if you suddenly had a huge vacuum leak from a carb boot coming undone. I'd start by verifying you have fuel in the carbs by attaching a length of tubing and opening the drain screw at the bottom. Fuel comes out of your carbs, look elsewhere. No fuel, find out why it's not getting to your carbs. Perhaps your fuel line kinked.,,,

I have been riding my S440 to work several days a week and it seems to be running out of charge in the battery. Its a brand new battery so I dont think thats the problem. I charge my battery at night ride the bike to work then home and thats usually about it. After that it has trouble starting again. I know how to check a cars alternator but I am completely ignorant about motorcycle electrical so I need some guidance to see why it keeps dying on me. The EFI troubleshooting manual is downloadable on this webiste on the homepage under manuals. I believe it will tell you everything you need to know! A popular upgrade for the commuters is to swap the stator and regulator for the ATV versions, which offer more charging to the battery. Another thing you can do is switch to an LED taillight (see my writeup finally finished for mine) and use a Battery Tender Jr. at night. The Tender has helped me a lot lately because mornings are about 45 degrees, and the batteries like to give up quick!,,,

I drive the bike every day or two and it always starts immediately. Does this sound like a starter or solenoid or something else? Well tried to jump start the bike and it wouldn't start just the same clicking sound. Also tried to jump over the solenoid with a screwdriver and nothing happened. Then I tried to push start the bike and again nothing. I can tell the battery is weak but even push starting, I should be able to start it without a battery right? ,,,

everything working perfect. Wednesday night i was riding home from work and got about halfway home bike had a small bog while coming up for a turn onto another street pulled in the clutch and stall. Rolled to a stop and fired the magic button. The motor would turn over and act like it wanted to run (had to give a small amount of throttle) for about 2-3 seconds and then would die. Did this about 5 times and the typical dead or low batter clicking occured. Got the bike home and it has been on the tender for the last 2 days and i just put some time in on the bike and sure enough bike will turn over although kida sputtering and making slight backfire sounds (almost as if timing is off) and will run for about 2-3 seconds and dies. I can do this about 4-5 times and the infamous clicking starts to happen again. Now my bike has never been a cold start bike, i always have to give it a bit of throttle when its cold to keep it running, but once it warms up runs like a champ...or atleast it used to. Its a fairly new battery and has been kept on the tender when the bike is not used for a few days. Now the other thing that bothers me is it seems that oil may be seeping out from where the head and the case meet, but very little. The motor does have a slight coating of oil around the gasket area. I did send the motor to ATK back in late 04 or 05 and had the reliability and upgrade done to it but have only about 500 total miles on it since then, with about 400 of those in the last coulple of months. ,Even with a good bike battery 4-5 tries is about all they have.So forget about the battery and go with basics fuel,compression and spark. Also sounds like you need some mapping help, you should never have to touch the throttle when starting. The will run perfect if they are tuned. Do you know what map is in it? Did ATK also change the ECU to a .atj map?,,,

as long as it is under warranty then you should be able to get replacement parts or a trade in for a new one

The seal on the clutch actuator arm shaft is leaking.