2011 kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Voyager - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Ideal spark plug gap varies slightly depending on brand - check the online application catalogue for the brand of plug fitted to your bike and the recommended gap will be found in the relevant entry.

Google would have a manual then for a 1986 Kawasaki KX80 manuals and EBay too.

https://www.zxforums.com/threads/1995-gpz1100-possible-cdi-issue.62234/ https://www.fixya.com/motorcycles/t20132704-bike_stolen_recovered_when_refitting

Yes, there are specific sockets for spark plugs, usually a deep socket with a rubber insert to stop the plug dropping out. For the ZX bikes you'll need a 'thin walled' type. eBay does them as a set for a sensible price.

https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/kawasaki/zl_600_a1_a2_eliminator/85-87/picture/coolant_per_litre_-_rock_oil

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDYUGnso0lA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHuB1lyagKM

AMSOIL is the Official Oil of the GNCC series. You can trust them to protect your ATV. Also, check out our customer reviews on amsoil.com to make the best choice for your KAWASAKI KFX50 . Hear from thousands of customers who have used AMSOIL synthetic lubricants. https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/atv/2015/kawasaki/kfx50/50/

check youtube

http://maar24.com/

Have you tried a new spark plug? You stated that the spark plug isn't "Getting Fire". Please run this test again with a spark plug that you know is working. after you verify the plug isn't receiving power. You will need a test light to run a coil test. This coil has to blade style connectors. One should have 12 volts (ign, key in run position). the other blade will be negative and should cause the test light to pulse or flash with the engine cranking over. Please write back with your results and let me know if it was the coil or that you need more information.

2 stroke engines are timed through the marks on the magnentor plate

nasty carb, blocked fuel line, not enough spark.

Unfortunately electrical issues can not be solved over the internet. There are just too many variables to cover. I suggest you start at the power source and work your way towards the ignition. Once you find where the power stops, you will find the issue.

Link below has parts breakdown, under gear change mechanism. Could it be the part call spring change pedal return. https://ebookpedia.top/dlcs/gbc-wiring-diagram.pdf https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLBKLlHyd24 https://www.riderforums.com/threads/false-neutral-between-2nd-and-3rd-gear.50956/ manual http://www.kawasaki-customs.com/modeles-kawasaki/1500meanstreak-kawasaki-customs/VN1500.pdf

First thing I would look at is the fuel tank cap. There is - or should be a tank breather tube. The cap and the tube can - and do - get clogged up with dirt. Clean this thoroughly with a solvent and poke something small into the hole(s) to ensure they are clear. Also, check out the air filter - is one present ? If there is, is it clean ? Next, go for the spark plugs - these 400cc 4-strokes rev hard and high - more like 2-strokes - so the plugs take a real hammering. Invest in some iridium ones - well worth the expense.

Not really enough information to help. What kind of motorcycle, what engine? Is it a 4-cylinder or 6 cylinder? Does it have a carburetor for each cylinder? You have spark on one and two, but it won't run? Could have no spark, or you could have carburetors not giving you fuel.

runder drivers seat.black box with 3 plugs called a relay/fuse junction box.Kawasaki part# 27002-0007,list price $117.27

more air? more fuel? filters.....

hi first measure the compression to know if its okey before checking the pick up censer,

Remove old bearing and take the numbers off it into a bearing shop