Hi, Dan the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day Kawasaki Kaze Zx130 Manual Kawasaki Kaze ZX130 Parts Catalog pdf http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki Moto TH Kawasaki Kaze ZX130 Specification The Kawasaki Kaze ZX130 Powerful Surprise
Hi, Sally before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. On early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Brake light Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum Brake light not working Kawasaki KLR 250 Service Manual Supplement OEM Parts for Kawasaki http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki
2 alignments to check
one is the alignment of the sprockets front to back and the second is the rear axle is parallel to the motor sprocket
Belts always run to the high side or biggest circumference so if the axle is is not perfectly parallel to the drive then the belt will run to the high side , that side being furthermost away from the drive sprocket
How to check
select a center point of the swing arm that is the same on both sides of the pivot and measure accurately the distance back to the center of the rear axle
If that distance is not exactly the same , then adjust the axle on the low side back to make the dimension the same
Holding the rear wheel off the ground and manually spinning the wheel and watching the belt track across the sprocket will show if incorrect
adjust until the belt tracks in the center of the sprockets
Hi, Robert before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. bike won start weird electrical symptoms KawiForums Kawasaki Motorcycle... 3 Things to Look for When Your Motorcycle Won Start The Allstate Blog Kawasaki Eliminator 125 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki 2009 Kawasaki Eliminator 125 Owner Manual