Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. Kasea 50cc won start engin turns but no firing at all Off Road Forums... ATV Connection Aeon Scooter Parts Racing Planet USAhttps://www.thomasmorecollegebookstore.com/panther-110-atv-manual.pdf Tips and Tricks for Motorcyclists
First, I'm not a RV representative
* Call or go online to contact the MFR for specific set up instructions. Check the MFR's plate on RV for model and serial number. There should be the "official" name and contact phone number. I say 'official' as there are a lot of similar named companies that have the same RV (rebuilt for sale).
*** The following is for information only ***
Hi, Cameron popping on deceleration is usually caused by a lean fuel condition or an air leak in the exhaust system and is generally located where black carbon soot is seen as a flashing build up from any joint connection. This condition can easily be remedied by removing and cleaning both joint pieces and reassembling with high temp silicone and the correct torque applied to the exhaust clamps where present. Coughing is usually caused by an air leak in the intake system and will generally have the same telltale signs of location by a wet or damp buildup of oil/gas seepage at the intake manifold to cylinder head or carburetor connection and in rare instances a worn throttle plate shaft and or seals. Spitting is usually caused by a faulty accelerator pump and or nozzle, or the float bowl needle and seat leaking and overflowing through the main jet mixing well nozzle, or the air-fuel mixture ***** set to lean. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. ATV Connection carb backfire http://www.atvriders.com/vbb/archive/index.php/t-266936.html Aeon motorcycle manuals
Hi, Anonymous your bike is monitored by electronic sensors, valves, switches etc. that sends data to your Ignition Control Module which then tells your fuel delivery system how to play nicely with the other children/exhaust, timing, etc. If you replace any of her children ie. pipes, air filter, cams etc. she gets very angry and will make your life and the bikes miserable. Remapping involves downloading a new set of parameters so your ICM will recognise her new children and all will be right in the performance world. Remapping is not cheap and needs to be done by a professional technician and has to be redone every time you install a new performance part you might want to consider purchasing a fuel tuner that you can program yourself and save technician fee's. Tuners come in various price ranges depending on your needs and wallet personally I recommend the Cobra Fi 2000 PowrPro it is plug and play will work on any bike, which is great for your next bike down the road, and is not married to your ICM your local Suzuki dealer can explain that part to you. For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below and for specific questions or answers feel free to contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Good luck and have a nice day. Fi2000 ARB Fuel Management Cobra USA Amazon com cobra fi2000 powrpro tuner https://www.tradebit.com/filesharing.php/search/0/2008+suzuki+boulevard+ct90 Suzuki Boulevard Parts Finder http://www.genuinesuzukimanuals.com/samples/om.pdf
Kits like cobra or sigmajet are great for tweaking, judge your present performance first and determine if you're in the ballpark; Is it responsive throughout the powerband? How's your exhaust looking? If the pipes are showing signs of getting too hot (chrome bluing, exhaust tips chalky white=too lean, tips black=rich).
On to the spark plugs. "Reading" a plug gives an excellent picture; after a somewhat aggressive run with out too much idling pull the plug and have a look at the porclean insulator just above the electrode gap. Best is a nice even cocoa brown. Black=rich, white=lean. I would suggest zeroing in thoroughly, then consider going above and beyond if you wish.
Hi, Anonymous if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.google.com/search?q=2010+TAO+TAO+CY50+fuel+line+routing&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjfmufDm93lAhXytlkKHRJmDGoQsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1440&bih=757 https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/what-to-do-if-your-motorcycle-doesnt-start/ http://www.49ccscoot.com/manuals/manuals.html https://www.taotaopartsdirect.com/ https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1090554/Taotao-Atm50-A1.html
These instructions are for the 1997 Honda Magna VT250CR, which comes from Japan.
The oil filter is inside the underside of the engine, and not an externally accessible part like on the larger displacement versions of the Magna (750cc).
1) There is an oil plug (12mm) which you need to remove to drain the majority of the oil from the engine
2) Once most of the oil is drained from the engine (approximately 2l), remove the nut holding the oil sump assembly together, which is right beside the oil plug, and the oil filter will be revealed once the plate comes loose.
Many other maintenance and repair instructions regarding the 1997 Honda Magna VT250CR are available on my personal video blog:
The Harley Davidson sportster comes with built in security system you will have to use remote dongle that came with bike. If you dont have the remote go to Youtube and look for resetting security system for 2009 Sportster