20 Most Recent 2009 Keeway Matrix 50 Questions & Answers


Hi, Fmapalategui and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery damaged or nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
4. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
7. Water or dirt in the carburetor.
8. Intake air leak.
9. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.
10. Choke valve inoperative.
11. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
12. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
13. Faulty ignition coil.
14. Valves sticking.
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2009 Keeway... | Answered on Dec 27, 2017


problem could very well be that stock exhaust system as it was designed for the 50cc cylinder and not a 70cc cylinder.

2009 Keeway... | Answered on Sep 29, 2012


Check the light bulb. Chances are that the brake light filament is burned out but the running light filament is still good. If the bulb checks out okay with a multimeter, check the brake light switch and the wire connectors..

2009 Keeway... | Answered on Jul 31, 2011


Since all electrical works the same regardless of the vehicle, I would suspect that you've got a couple of grounds making contact where they shouldn't (power flow through).

I would recommend getting a volt meter that can check for OHMS and trace each line to determine it's function and polarity since on vehicles most things work when you give them 'ground'. From there, label each one somehow (tape, dots with a permanent marker ect) so you can keep the grounding wires separate from the positive or 'charged' ones. I hope this helps and good luck!

Keeway... | Answered on Feb 16, 2019


find a real mechanic that can reason out the failure and fix the fault
indicates a problem in the adjustment or a cable problem or if hydraulic , air in the system

Keeway... | Answered on Feb 28, 2018


Hi, be carefull red lights are always a sighn of trouble !!!
in your case please check the wiring connection at the oil pressure gauge (usualy in the front of crankcase ) As for the tail bake light, also check wiring connections at the brake pedal switch and front brake switch ( under brake lever) Also check bulb. It will bea good idea to spresd som wd40 all over the electrical connections . Hope this helps

Keeway... | Answered on Nov 03, 2017


Hi, Ignis because I live in Florida the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
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Keeway... | Answered on Oct 20, 2017


Hi, Delaney for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your KeeWAY, despair not, for a mere zero $34 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Keeway... | Answered on Sep 21, 2017


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Keeway... | Answered on Aug 29, 2017


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Keeway... | Answered on Jun 30, 2017

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