20 Most Recent 2009 kawasaki Ninja 650R Questions & Answers


I got this free Pdf manual from an online store for free and I don't think Ive visited a mechanic or fixya for help for more than 3-4 times out of the all the times I fixed the chipper in these 4 years

2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 19, 2019


Hi, Jasonstutzma and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 07, 2018


Hi, Comyns for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 03, 2018


Hi, John and the usual suspects are:
1. Neutral light bulb burnt out.
2. Faulty neutral switch.
3. A loose bulb in the socket.
4. Faulty wiring from the neutral switch to the light.
5. If the neutral light stays on while the bike is in gear the wire from the light to the neutral switch is grounded.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Jul 15, 2018


Hi, Sheridan before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any number reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 11, 2017


Hi, Paula you may have a faulty temperature light circuit grounding out causing the light to come on check your wiring, for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 30, 2017


Hi Keith, The link below is a short youtube video explaining the fault codes(worth watching)..... CHEERS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eW7hnCLEA1M
The FI light on our Kawasaki is much like the check engine light on your car. If it comes on it is real easy to check the code, and for the bike to tell you what is up. Just ground the diagnostic wire and it will start reading them out. Mine just had one code, but it will read out as many as you have. Then you can know what to address to potentially fix issues with the bike. There are more than this, but below are some basic codes to work with.

Service Codes FI Indicator Light (LED) Problems
11 Main throttle sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
12 Inlet air pressure sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
13 Inlet air temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
14 Water temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
15 Atmospheric pressure sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
21 Crankshaft sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
23 Camshaft position sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
24 Speed sensor malfunction
31 Vehicle-down sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
32 Subthrottle sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
34 Exhaust butterfly valve sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
35 Immobilizer amplifier malfunction
36 Blank key detection
51 Stick (Ignition) coil #1 malfunction, wiring open or short
52 Stick (Ignition) coil #2 malfunction, wiring open or short
53 Stick (Ignition) coil #3 malfunction, wiring open or short
54 Stick (Ignition) coil #4 malfunction, wiring open or short
62 Subthrottle valve actuator malfunction, wiring open or short
63 Exhaust butterfly valve actuator malfunction, wiring open or short

2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 01, 2016


One end of the cable plugs into your speedometer, the other into the drive unit mounted with your front wheel. It's getting the thing routed correctly is the problem. You have to make sure the cable is not binding or pulling. You hare to leave enough slack so that the cable does not make any really tight turns, which will make the cable kink against the housing, you want to make sure that it does not rub against any paint, you want to make sure it is tightened down securely and you want to make very sure that you do not bind the turning of the front wheel. Have fun, glad it's not me. I used to keep a measurement of the lengths of cable at each end when I replaced a cable. If it ran through the headlight area or a fairing, I used to tie a string to one end of the cable, and pull it behind the old cable. Then all you have to do is pull the new cable by the string and it is mounted correctly. You, unfortunately, are going to have to figure the routing out for yourself. Not a fun job. Actually I am sorry, it was just that I remember when I was working as a motorcycle mechanic that was one of the really most aggravating tasks I encountered. Not really hard, but getting everything just right was a trial of patience. Best of luck.

2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Nov 03, 2013


Motorcycle batteries are actually rather fragile. You probably did one of two things. Either the battery acid spilled over from cell to cell and ruined it, or the shock of coming down hard dislodged one or more of the plates, which would also ruin it. With no battery operating, no starting. If you bump start it, (either rolling downhill and popping the clutch or by pushing it to do the same thing, although you usually have to jump on the bike after getting it going and dumping the clutch at the moment you come down on the seat. do only in an emergency) you might get it started, but you are now running without the battery's "buffering" of the alternator's output, and I would not recommend it. Solution, get a new battery. You might also get the front forks checked, I have seen fork tubes that were bent, triple trees cracked, damaged axles and wheels damaged. Any of those can happen with even one hard wheelie. Its hard enough with only two wheels, you had to try with one? Just kidding, I have been know to try a couple, but in an abandoned parking lot! You can't steer and you can't stop until you get the front end back on the ground, you haven't seen it all until you see a Harley on its back wheel. I even did a few "stoppies" (hard front braking and lean forward and you can get the rear wheel to lift, need dual disc front brakes usually). Fun for a while, but not my cup of tea for doing it more than for a few minutes. Had to see if my modified HD could do it and it could. Scared the ##### out of me to put it mildly.

2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Nov 03, 2013


Sorry, no reset.
check all fuse links and fuses, hopefully those went before your chip.

When jumping a bike, connect bike first and disconnect first.

2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Nov 03, 2013


It sounds like the starter isn't getting enough power to crank the engine.

Motorcycle batteries mostly last 3 years or so. Replace your battery if its very old.

If you have any doubts, try jump starting it.But as you mentioned you already tried jump starting with car battery. If you use a car battery MAKE SURE the car is OFF; otherwise, you could fry your electrical system.May be this has shorted the electrical system in your bike, so the horn and lights not working.Any of the wire got shorted or the fuse got blown out .Its very much possible. ---------
Also check the kickstand switch and neutral safety switch.If any of the safety switch is shorted it can also cause the no start problem. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

2009 kawasaki... | Answered on May 30, 2011


Sounds like you have a bad connection on to the battery.Clean terminals and sandpaper the connections that go on to the battery.Tighten the starter solenoid connections if you can find them.This is a fairly common problem on motor bikes.If all fails,get the battery tested at an auto electrician or whatever you call those guys over there.Gd luck with it.

kawasaki Cat... | Answered on Jun 20, 2011


What do you mean by overloaded? Do you mead too high of RPM's? Floating the valves can result in the valves hitting a piston and bending one of them or worse.

kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Bikes of that age only need a few things to run.

Compression
Fuel
A spark at the right time

One of those three is defective?

Compression, check with a compression tester
Fuel, is it clean and fresh. Is it getting to the spark plug, it is wet with gasoline?
A spark at the right time. New spark plug and engine correctly timed. A nice fat blue spark if you put the plug against the cylinder head?

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 18, 2019


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose.
5. Faulty ignition coil or ignition / electronic module
6. Failed CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Exhaust Butterfly Valve - RiderForums.com


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for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 11, 2019


Try looking at the main fuse (30amp) on the starter solenoid. Make sure handlebar run switch is to on position - we all do it! and also check battery connections are tight - especially the negative lead.

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 05, 2019


From a dealer or Canadian Tire, or a parts place , maybe Walmart.

kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 19, 2019


Hi, Leoj for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 19, 2019

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