2009 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Try changing the battery in the FOB. When the battery gets low it will not work or is intermittent.

This is a good question. Normally, the bike calls for 80/90 weight oil but the newer HD performance engines, transmissions and primaries use a good 40 weight in all three areas. I know of quite a few people that use 40W and they all say the bikes run cooler, shift easier, better performance and better mileage.

check tension

I've seen this posted many times. While riding the bike, it just shuts off. They report that if they turn the ignition off and then back on, the power comes back. This is a common problem posted on this site. I'm sorry that I cannot help you with this problem as I specialize in the older model bikes that the dealers will no longer work on like Panheads, Shovelheads, Ironhead Sportsters, and Evolution powered machines. I think the problem has something to do with the ECM on the bike but I may be wrong.

Good Luck
Steve

Question edited for FULL 'year make model'. Question moved from 'Power Motorcycles' to correct category. Help in the link, crank sensor or ignition module are the most likely causes. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+fxdl+no+spark ..

I doubt you are going to find an online repair/service manual for your Harley. Harley-Davidson is very protective of their copyrighted material. From time to time, you may see something online on the repair and servicing of H-D motorcycles but it doesn't stay there long. I would suspect that the webmaster gets a call from Harley's legal department. You can buy an OEM manual from your local shop or licensed dealers or you can get one of the other manuals such as a Clymers. Look at it this way, if you manage to fix one thing on your bike using the manual as a guide, at todays labor prices, the manual just paid for itself and the rest is free.

Good Luck
steve

hi,

Sooner or later, every bike will need a new chain and sprockets. Once a chain begins to wear, its pitch changes and wears the sprocket teeth. Then the chain begins to wear even faster. Then it's time for a new chain, and a new pair of sprockets. The rear wheel on my motorcycle had been misaligned (I had used the inaccurate etched indicators on the swingarm-rather than a ruler against the sprocket-to set wheel alignment) and ridden hard through a gritty, salty winter. The rear sprocket was in rough shape, and the chain was making lots of popping sounds as the bike went down the road. Changing a chain is a fairly basic job that requires a chain breaker / riveting tool and whatever is needed to remove the rear wheel and sprockets. It's nice to have a blow torch and a torque wrench on hand for this job, too. The ingenious Terra-X chain tool is made in Australia out of tool steel, and weighs just 150 grams. A big hollow bolt threads into the bigger of the two holes, and is used when pressing outer plates onto new master links. A smaller bolt with a pin can thread into the hollow bolt, and is used to push link pins out of old chains or to peen new master link pins by pushing them against a grub screw threaded into the steel body's other hole. That little grub screw with a rounded steel end screws into the smaller hole of the chain breaker. It fits into and peens the hole of the new master link. When changing a chain, the first step is to loosen the bolts on the front sprocket. It's good to get those loose while the chain is still on the bike, partly to avoid putting undue stress on the transmission, and partly to avoid getting deep into the job and finding that the front sprocket bolts are stuck. In this case, the small allen bolts needed a bit of heat to come undone. After the bolts are loose, it's time to break the chain. With the Terra-X chain tool, you remove the small grub screw and use the small bolt with the pin to push out one of the chain's pins. No grunting or swearing required. Then comes sprocket replacement. Six nuts on the rear sprocket, the two bolts on the front sprocket, and that step is done. I had a torque wrench handy, so I could get the torque values just right when putting everything back together. The next step is the big one: installing the master link that joins the ends of the new chain together. The master link comes with a little bag with some X-Rings, a master link, and some sticky tan lube. Smear the lube on the pins and inside the X-Rings, then begin to assemble the master link around the two ends of the chain, making sure to get the X-Rings in the right spots. Pressing the outer plate onto the master link is the hardest part of the job. I removed the pin bolt from the Terra-X tool and used the hollow bolt to push the outer plate onto the master link's pins. It took a few tries, but eventually I got it in the correct position. After the sprockets are on and the master link is in position, the master link's pins need to be peened. With the Terra-X, the pin bolt pushes the master link pin against the grub screw's steel ball, and flares the pin. It takes a lot of effort-mostly because it's not easy to get a lot of leverage on tools when they're underneath a motorcycle. Position the wheel for proper chain tension, torque everything to the correct specs, and you're back on the road. The new chain is smooth, nearly silent, and ready for thousands of miles of high-speed running.

I have used synthetic oil since my first oil change at 1,000 miles. It now has 65,000 and does not burn any oil between changes at 5,000. You can buy the synthetic at your local Harley dealer. They have one oil now that can be used in all three applications. Otherwise buy any brand of synthetic that you can find at the best price.

Is your gas good?

Should be on the front wheel if it 2:1 ratio

I believe you have a bad ground for the left turn signal.

Is the FOB on your person or nearby? You might check the battery in the FOB, when they start getting low they will not send a signal to the alarm and the bike thinks it is being stolen.

Suggest running a good brand of fuel injection cleaner through the system. It is most likely getting gummed up from not being used or a bad grade of fuel and is running extremely lean. Take a close look at the exhaust underneath the guards. See if the pipes are getting red. If starving for fuel they will get even more red with higher RPM.

The only thing I might suggest is to check the front motor mount again. Sometimes the engine will vibrate excessively if there is a crack in the frame.

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+change+primary+oil+2005+dyna&FORM=VIRE1#view=detail&mid=FA0878132C96FF24A0ABFA0878132C96FF24A0AB

Need more info. What year and engine size? Carburetor or fuel injected?

Try new plugs first Are there any codes set???

Check for a short circuit in headlight wiring or switch. Did anyone work on the handlebars or clutch perch or left switch assembly lately??

THAT is not a DTC, number/version of the ECM it appears.

You do not gibe a model year and the question does not make any sense so post again with more information about what and why you want to do what you think you need to do.There is no camshaft seal so what seal are you referring to?? Cam cover gasket or ????