2008 kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic - Answered Questions & Fixed issues


Hi, Hoosiermama1 the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual
https://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/kawasaki/2008-kawasaki-vulcan-1500-classic-ar37704.html
Kawasaki Vulcan

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 17, 2018 | 262 views


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Paint codes Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forums
Kawasaki Motorcycle Paint ColorRite
https://www.twowheelparts.nl/en/paint/colorpaint/kawasaki
Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki VULCAN 1500 CLASSIC Owner Manual

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Aug 29, 2018 | 39 views


Hi, Neil before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Bike Won START clicks won turn over Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forums
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/mechanics-corner/114833-help-06-vulcan-500-wont-start-loud-clicking-when-i-press-ignition-button.html
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Aug 11, 2018 | 69 views


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty gas cap one-way valve has failed.
2. The gas cap rubber seal is old-hard-cracked.
3. Fuel tank vent line clogged-pinched
4. Faulty EVAP canister or clogged-pinched lines.
5. Faulty EVAP solenoid valve stuck.
6. Charcol in EVAP canister soaked with fuel.
7. Excessive engine heat or ambient temperature.
8. Fuel tank overfilled.
9. Vapor lines filled with fuel.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic fuel tank airlock Google Search
Vulcan Nomad removing the tank youtube
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Jul 26, 2018 | 35 views


Hi, Todd if you are experiencing excessive oil coming out of the crankcase breather or air filter please drain all engine oil and replace half of the same oil that comes out. Many riders are overfilling their oil system because they do not know how to properly read their oil site glass or dipstick. The following procedure works on nearly all 4 stroke engines but to be on the safe side you should refer to your owners manual. Use your center stand if you have one.
1. Bring the engine up to operating temperature or let idle for 5 minutes.
2. Turn off your engine and let it sit for 2 minutes, this will allow the oil from the top end to drain to the bottom.
3. Hold your bike straight up or on the center stand and wait 2 minutes for the oil in the bottom of the engine to be level in the sight glass or on the dipstick.
4. Your oil level should be between the top full mark and the bottom add oil mark.
5. Never overfill your oil system it will cause problems:
a. oil leaking out of exhaust pipes.
b. oil leaking out of breather pipe/hose.
c. oil carryover into the air cleaner.
6. Your oil site glass must "NEVER" be completely full or empty drain or add oil as necessary.
7. Your oil dipstick must "NEVER" be over the full mark and should never be below the add mark drain or add oil as needed.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Where to check oil level on 96 1500 Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forums
Kawasaki Vulcan oil changes Do you know about the screen Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Jul 17, 2018 | 52 views


Turn fuel petcock to off. Take off fuel line coming from petcock and use that hose, or one the same size, to run from petcock to gas container. (have paper towels or something ready because fuel left trapped in fuel line will leak out even with petcock off). With hose going in container turn petcock to normal "run" position and drain until dry - lean bike side to side to get it all. *Note - it usually drains faster with fuel cap off. Then turn petcock to "reserve" setting and do the same to get the fuel out of reserve partition in tank. Most tanks are only held on by a few bolts at rear and rubber "slide on" knobs at front, so if you remove seat and the few tank bolts you slide tank backwards and it comes off. Then you can do this draining outside / away from anything.

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Jan 21, 2015 | 158 views


sounds like you have a seized motor . or tanny

kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on Mar 24, 2015 | 28 views


The clutch is not engaging by the sounds of it ,does the clutch cable have some free play at the lever ?

kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on Feb 04, 2017 | 164 views


Check your ground wire at headlamp plug.

kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on May 15, 2012 | 26 views


float needle sticking by sounds of your trouble ,

kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on Sep 06, 2011 | 268 views


The air should bleed out until coolant appears at the housing.
If air keeps coming back maybe a head gasket problem.
Is the cap good

kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on Aug 03, 2011 | 382 views


you say the bike cranks but do you have spark? apart from that check your main fuse ,after that things get tricky and time for a shop to look it over

kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on Jul 12, 2011 | 211 views


The real wheel is likely not centered. Check the rear wheel and carefully measure the distances from the axle to a fixed point they need to be even. If they're not you will get the uneven tire wear you describe.

kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on Jun 28, 2011 | 129 views


It sounds like a slightly bent shift fork and / or a broken gear tooth or two. Getting to the shift forks and gears is a pretty major undertaking and the repair is not recommended for the novice mechanic. Your best bet is to take the bike to a dealer and let a mechanic make a determination as to the problem. Transmission repairs are somewhat expensive. A single cylinder bike may cost $750 or so to fix. A four cylinder is more likely to be in the $1700+ range.

kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on Jun 28, 2011 | 235 views


You need to check the charging current and also the discharging of the battery in the IDLE mode.
Please check this link for some tips.

http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5824824-draining_car_battery_charge


Use a multimeter to check the charging current and also discharging rate when the engine is switched off.

The alternator and accessories must be checked.

kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on Jun 13, 2011 | 327 views


The clutch/neutral/side stand safety switch connectors or conductors becomming loose or disconnected .

Air in the clutch hydraulic system or other clutch related problem.

Defective clutch safety switch.

Defective neutral safety switch.

Defective side stand safety switch.

Does the engine rev in neutral with no problems? Does engine rev in gear with clutch disengaged (lever pulled)?

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Get the switches checked.Most probably, its causing the problem.But if switches checked out ok, then it can be clutch related issue:---

Click this link below for more help:---

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/kawasaki-motorcycle-clutch.html

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This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.


kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on Jun 04, 2011 | 91 views


congrads, I have a 96. there is a seal up in there for the final drive to driveshaft. not sure if it can be changes without removing assy
www.repairmanualclub.com
www.bikebandit.com
good luck

kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on Jun 04, 2011 | 98 views


Hi, make sure your lever is adjusted to your foot. You can turn the linkage arm adjuster up or down to get a better throw on the lever. If you don't wear boots when riding, this is always a problem on a Kawasaki due to the positive neutral finder. The fist question you get when you call the Kawasaki Hotline is if the rider wears boots or not.
If adjusting the lever doesn't help the problem is internal. Under the gear change cover the items to check would be the pawl that rotates the drum and the detent arm and spring. If the edge of the pawl is worn, it won't move the drum far enough. If the detent arm or spring isn't working, it will want to drop into a false neutral. I've had very good luck by removing all of the parts and polishing them, removing any burrs and replacing the springs. If the problem isn't found under the cover in the gear change area then the only other solution is to pull the motor apart and inspect the tranny itself.

kawasaki Vulcan... | Answered on May 15, 2011 | 291 views


runder drivers seat.black box with 3 plugs called a relay/fuse junction box.Kawasaki part# 27002-0007,list price $117.27

kawasaki... | Answered 4 hours ago | 14 views

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