Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.harley-davidsonforums.com/forums/electrical/320674-2007-hd-softail-deluxe-wont-start-plz-help.html Harley Davidson Softail Won Start 2007 Harley Softail Service Manual pdf http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/softail-deluxe-efi-2006-owners-manual-66451 Instant Repair Help over the Phone speak to me personally $6
Hi Guap, call, take a ride or trailer your bike over to your local dealers service/parts department, I'm sure they will be happy to take your Harley Davidson for a test ride if necessary/possible and offer professional advice and assistance concerning your issue. Good luck have a nice day.
Hi Joe, it could be as as simple as a proper clutch adjusment or a more serious problem in the transmission, shifter fork, shifter pawl, or shifter cam ect. Do yourself a huge favor and pick up the best tool you will ever buy, a service manual. It will trouble shoot the problem for you and walk you through repair and quick fixes if there are any. And it almost always pays for it's self the very first time you use it. Good luck
Hi Anonymous, if you are going to work on your bike the first and best tool you will ever buy is a service manual, it will pay for it's self usually the first time you use it. That being said here is a short list of could be's: (mechanical) no or low compression broken rings or hole in piston, bent or stuck valve. (fuel) shorted or clogged injector, and my personal favorite (electrical) bad spark plug, plug cable, ignition coil, electronic control module. But there is one thing you can do that might help point you in the right direction. Try to retrieve any trouble codes that might have been generated because of this issue. To help walk you through this procedure go to: http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-harley-trouble-codes.html
Follow the shifter reach rod that runs from the shift lever back to a short lever on the transmission. Take the nut off and take the rod loose from this short lever. Then, move the forward like you are going to shift into low gear but don't actually shift the transmission into gear. Feel for the spring tension. Then, move the lever backwards and feel for the spring tension there. Check the shift lever and the reach rod for binding. If you don't feel the spring tension trying to return the lever back to the center, it's likely that the shifter pawl return spring is broken. This spring is what returns the shifter lever back to 'center". But,the temperature of the transmission will not change this. If the spring is broken, it's broken cold or hot. If the spring is good and there is not bind in the linkage, the problem may be in the shifter cam mechanism inside the transmission. Either way, this is an internal issue in the transmission.
The primary case takes 36-44 ounces of oil. Stand the bike as straight up as you can safely get it. Remove the derby cover from the primary cover. Fill the primary case until the oil comes up to the lower edge of the outer clutch drum. That's the shiny aluminum ring on the outside of the clutch assembly. Do not overfill or the clutch will drag making finding neutral with the engine running next to impossible.
You did not say what year or model bike you have but if the brake light is stuck on, you probably have a bad front brake light switch. The switch is located in the right handlebar switch housing and protrudes out so that it is operated by the front brake lever. Make sure that the front brake master cylinder is adjusted down tight against the right handlebar switch housing.
Squirt fuel in carb or tb throat. If it fires fuel problem. You can bypass the relay for fuel pump or check the output terminals if relay for power. I would bypass relay first. If it starts you either have a bad relay or missing signal to relay. Check for voltage to relay and signal voltage to relay. If both present then replace the relay.
Its possible that the ABS sensor is not reading the "trigger" mechanism on the wheel properly. If you changed from a 19 to a 23 inch wheel, the sensor will think that the wheel is turning too fast or too slow and cause the ABS sensor to flash. There is probably a different sensor plate or sensor for the larger wheel.