Hi, John and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Arriving at a fair price for any secondhand vehicle is very difficult and many variables should be considered though in the final analysis anything is only worth what the market will pay - if the seller asks too much the buyer will walk away.
There are many publications providing guide prices for all manner of vehicles - but these are only a guide and some models tend to command higher prices because of a good reputation while other models with a reputation for trouble or high running costs can fall far below.
No vehicle should be bought without a thorough inspection and price adjustments made for faults found and any pending work, taking due consideration of fair wear and tear.
A service history is important but will affect the price only if it can be fully verified by the presence of official invoices and a vehicle should only reach the guide price if the literature pack, the full complement of keys, tools, accessories, etc. is present. The replacement cost of some of the modern keys can be eye-watering so it is important to think ahead.
The presence of local dealer expertise and a spares service is worth a little extra and the absence of a local dealer drives the price down a little.
Firstly, I don't know whether the vehicle has an immobiliser or other type of anti-theft or security system but it would be an unusual modern vehicle if it doesn't and if so it might be the cause of the non-starting.
I am not familiar with the model but I expect it has many similarities with most modern vehicles where there is an engine management computer that drives the ignition coil and fuel injection system after processing information from a number of sensors. Replacing components without testing can be expensive and fruitless and unfortunately that needs a measure of experience and some specialised equipment.