Hi, Omskfnord before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Scooter Troubleshooting Scooter won start All about Scooters The Ultimate GY6 Starter Ignition Troubleshooting Tutorial Manuals Kymco http://kymcopartsonline.com/catalog/table_overview.php?s_fk_manufacturers_id=21&s_fk_model_ye Owner Manuals KYMCO
Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Scooter Service And Repair Manuals http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdfhttps://absolutelyscooters.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf Genuine Kymco spare parts https://www.kymcousa.com/showroom/like-50i
Arriving at a fair price for any secondhand vehicle is very difficult and many variables should be considered though in the final analysis anything is only worth what the market will pay - if the seller asks too much the buyer will walk away.
There are many publications providing guide prices for all manner of vehicles - but these are only a guide and some models tend to command higher prices because of a good reputation while other models with a reputation for trouble or high running costs can fall far below.
No vehicle should be bought without a thorough inspection and price adjustments made for faults found and any pending work, taking due consideration of fair wear and tear.
A service history is important but will affect the price only if it can be fully verified by the presence of official invoices and a vehicle should only reach the guide price if the literature pack, the full complement of keys, tools, accessories, etc. is present. The replacement cost of some of the modern keys can be eye-watering so it is important to think ahead.
The presence of local dealer expertise and a spares service is worth a little extra and the absence of a local dealer drives the price down a little.
Firstly, I don't know whether the vehicle has an immobiliser or other type of anti-theft or security system but it would be an unusual modern vehicle if it doesn't and if so it might be the cause of the non-starting.
I am not familiar with the model but I expect it has many similarities with most modern vehicles where there is an engine management computer that drives the ignition coil and fuel injection system after processing information from a number of sensors. Replacing components without testing can be expensive and fruitless and unfortunately that needs a measure of experience and some specialised equipment.
You've got a Ignition System Issue which narrows things down quite a bit. It's either the ignition switch that your key goes into, or an on/off(run/stop) switch, or it's a relay for the ignition systems(or starter relay), if it's none of those then it's the starter solenoid that you've been jumping with the screwdriver, it sounds like the starter is working as it should since it turns over- the reason it turns over but won't actually run is because the ignition system won't work unless the key is inserted and in the run position, or if there's any other on/off switch that controls your engine it could be there. I'm not familiar with this exact bike but this is a common issue with all motorized machines! You can bypass all of this but that requires running some wires and a couple of switches plus a relay or two- that's an option but don't do that as your issue is nothing major and would be easier to fix than to go through the trouble of re-wiring it all. Just start troubleshooting and eliminate one part at a time, check relays, fuses, and electrical connections first, then the individual components I listed above and check to make sure they have power coming in and out when/where they're supposed to. If your bike turns over but won't run and the key is on, and you have a functional Ignition system then you need to verify you have ignition by checking your coil's output. EASIEST way to do so is pull a spark plug and connect it to the spark plug wire as you normally would, then hold the spark plug against the engine to ground it and turn it over- you'll see if you have any spark jumping aroundbetween the spark plug's electrode and the base of the plug itself. Either way, you'll get this figured out now that you know where to start and what to check!
Check all wiring connections and especially those on the battery, starter, and starter solenoid(if seperare from battery). It sounds like something is just making a bad connection since it won't even turn over- I bet your problem is in this area, good Luck and if I've been helpful please click the green button to let me know, Habe A Great Day!