2013 Suzuki RM-Z 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Carb is not a pump. Carbs depend on suction and pressure to operate. If you are not getting fuel, the fuel pump may not be delivering the fuel to the carb or the carb may not be allowing the fuel in due to a stuck float valve or a dirty jet. I'm leaning toward a dirty jet or bad fuel.

so here is the answer straight from the manual:

Intake: 0.09 - 0.16 mm (0.004 - 0.006 in)

Exhaust: 0.17 - 0.24 mm (0.006 - 0.009 in)

this particular year was very unusual because it removed the multiple inputs from magnetos and just went with a single (2 wire) signal coil (green, black) which will ultimatly go into the left side case behind the pull start. the white/blue wire goes directly to the coil. the orange wire goes to the ignition and will have 12 volts when the ignition is powered on, then go to ground with ignition off. the black/white is constant ground. this year was different because the cdi let the regulator do all the converting from ac to dc. it is also one of the haardest years to find a box for used.

The bike has a slightly bent shift fork. The repair requires a complete engine teardown. Special tools needed include a torque wrench, impact driver, flywheel puller, and case splitter. This repair is not recommended for the novice mechanic. There are a lot of parts involved and just one mess up can force you to take the engine in a basket and plead with the dealer to reassemble the parts. The dealer will charge you more to repair a basket of parts than if you had just let them do the repair from the start. Below is a generic diagram showing how the shift forks, ( your bike has three ), move slider gears left and right to engage other gears. Please rate my answer.

you can do it just need patience and time, if your motorcycle has more than one carburetor be sure not to interchange the parts because there are jets not in the same number. thanks!

Compare the old cable to the new cable. The outside casings should be the same length and the Inside cable should also be the same length. The dealer may have supplied you with the wrong cable. If the cable is the correct one then check the positioning of the clutch release cam.

its normaley located under the seat on the frame

Possible you ran out of fluid before refilling...or maybe didn't get bleeder closed tight when you released brake pedal, and some air got in the lines. I'd just bleed it again.

Yes, it sounds like a complete engine gearbox strip!

you may expect no lower than 10 hours because you have to remove motor and dissasembled and you may expect to reshim a valve or two that is too tight at the same time.....we rebuilt a kx 250f 2008 last week and rebuilt the crankshaft and change valve guide and reangle valve seat for 12 hours r&r.....

The site listed below has exploded view diagrams of all sections of your bike with parts named. This will show location of your idle screw. The diagrams will also show how the kicklever goes together.
Cheers.

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-rm250-1990-l_model14078/partslist/

it depends on what you have for a suzuki ? if you have a road cruiser, you have to remove lower
case cover on left side of motor, this will expose linkage adjustment rod. do not try too much
adjustment, work with it little at a time. it has a wet clutch.

You have rust in your gas tank causing the needles to stick open. Check the filter on your fuel petcock or add an additional inline filter. Or you have worn needles in the carburetor. Disassemble clean and replace. You possibly have a malfunctioning vacuum fuel petcock that is bleeding fuel past vacuum diaphragm. Rebuild the vacuum petcock with a K&L rebuild kit or replace it with a new petcock that will also have a new fuel filter on it.

I am not certain exactly what bike you have so consider the diagram below as generic. Chances are the float needle is sticking open a bit. A bit of trash may be stopping it from closing fully. The overflow hose is where any "excess" gas is dumped. This hose vents to the open air. Be sure to turn off the gas valve (petcock) at the bottom side of the tank when bike is not in use. Please rate my answer. Thanks!

how is this possible have you over tightened the plug before get back to me

about 22.1 oz. give or take a .1 oz. or two

timing and fuel/air mix

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....