Laverda Motorcycles - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Be sure you are using the correct weight of engine oil. Too heavy a viscosity will cause the problem you mention. In addition, it could be the clutch cable sticking rather than the plates. Have you lubricated that cable lately? Does anyone even do that any more?

Don't understand your problem but if you're looking for a Post Office. go to usps.com, enter zip code.

Need more info.No clutch actuation? Slipping? What's it doing or not doing?

Did your bike quit whilst it was running, or is the problem that it won't turn over on the starter when you try to start it?Position 1 of the ignition switch should allow the starter to be operated and the engine to fire up. Position 2 is for parking lights only. The ignition switch can suffer poor internal contacts with age. It may have been replaced with the wrong type of switch if you say it turns over in position 2. Have you checked the fuses? If they are OK, try bypassing the ignition switch completely.If you are running the original ignition, the control box under the tank can fail. Check that there is a spark on all three plugs. THEY ALL MUST BE KEPT EARTHED when turning the engine over to avoid destroying the ignition module.

The most common complaints are the poor gas mileage, weak electric starter, not as fast off the line as the Japanese bikes, slower top end speed, top heavy and not a good commuter bike. Additionally, dealers are few and far between. Install new spark plugs, clean the air filter, clean or at least drain the carbs to remove any water in the float bowls. Do a compression check to see if the valves need to be re-seated.

Jo - you need to explain what problems you are having!! The 1980 model had a cable operated mechanism. Vital that the clutch cable is smoothly routed with bends as big a radius as possible. Lubrication of clutch lever pivot and cable is vital too. Handlebar adjuster should be used to leave a small amount of slack. If the problem is getting the clutch to free off, then if the bike has been standing for a long time the plates can stick together. Have an answer for that...

Hi, remove the caliper from the rotor, leaving the brake line conected, now lift the caliper higher than the master cylinder and re bleed the system with it in the higher position, this will force the air out up hill rather than the fluid gravity feeding when you bleed it in the normal position, poor master cylinders on the rear brake, make sure your brake pedal returns fully check it isnt sticking and has some free play

how good is the battery check terminals are clean leads and all conections are good try remote battery and jump start it like a car if the problem goes away its your battery if not its the starter or solinoid or leads

Sterling Silver 244 (BMW) shade number 1 Dupont

All late 60's and 70's Laverda 750 twins are negative earth.
Buy the 'Green Book' ISBN-13:
978-0-9796891-0-9 - do not pay more than the cover price inc post.
For parts try Slaters or Motal in the UK. I buy from Laverda Paradies in Germany, does what it says on the tin - every time.
http://www.laverda-paradies.de
For info try http://www.laverdamania.net/menugb.htm and
http://www.iloc.co.uk/

Laverda specialists such as Wolfgang Haerter; OCT or Andy Wagner/Laverda Paradies can help. Some enterprising owners have replaced the electronic guts with an aftermarket unit whilst retaining the original housing.
There are a couple of possible causes to consider - duff electronic revcounter or aftermarket (DMC) electronic ignition fitted which needs a filter fitting to the revcounter wiring - again, the latter is obtainable from Laverda specialists. Check out Laverda forums such as www.laverdapedia.com/forum for more info (use the search facility)

Try a new air cleaner, or strip down carbs and clean all jets .

one possible cause is that you dont have the correct clearances for the valves, if there is not enough clearance, once the engine gets hot and the valve expand, they can hold the valves open (usualy the exhaust valve)... this would cause low compression when hot making it hard to start.
hope it helps

try looking on e-bay for a book on your bikes or you could try to get a haynes service and repair manual
we call them " haynes the book of lies!" but they do help a bit so its realy unfair of us!!!

Front tyre 3.50 - 18
Rear tyre 4.00 - 18
You'll need tubes too.

Let me ask you , what is the voltage at the battery posts with engine running? If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Trying to remember, but all I had were twins. The triples were harder to come by. What's the guy's name? Wolfgang! He's the North American guy for older Laverda parts. He goes to the factory in Italy at least once a year. He lives in British Columbia, Canada. If you can't find him, check back with me. I will find his info. Good luck. TT

According to the repair guide the year 69 had frame numbers from 1650 to 2800 but this includes GT. The frame is different from SF frames,

32 amp brand new its been on charge for about 18 hours Acid for battery was put in by a dealer all electric functions working except the starter when the starter button is pushed there is a click and I can feel movment in a solonoid in front and just above the battery (in an ally case) all nuts to starter motor removed cleaned and re tightened Fuses checked (I can only find 2) these fuses are located behind the left side of the battery in a little black cover are perhaps there more fuses which are relavent to the starter the bike is in my workshop and I cant really get a go at jumping it on my own. I did try jumping when I thought it was the battery but it wouldnt go. I thought it was due to NO charge in the battery. Try a single jump lead from the +'ve on the battery direct to the starter motor. A screwdriver across to 2 solonoid connections does the same thing but is harder to control. You need to be careful as if there is an internal short in the starter motor you can run the risk of serious burns from very large fault currents flowing. Next is the poxy short battery negative to crank case...replace with a longer one to the actual starter motor 8m/m mounting bolt ( closest 8m/m to the barrel is more neat ). Less hazerdous is to get a cheap mumtimeter and measure the voltage across the starter motor when you press the starter button some times it is just a dirty segment on the starter motor remove plugs from cylinders, load the HT leads with removed plugs, rest against engine and engage top gear. Press the starter and rotate back wheel slightly backwards ( rocking motion ) going backwards engages the jaming roller clutch to move the starter off the dirty segment if present,,,

so that seems fine. I did some research and I think it's either along the lines of the spark plug(or ignition area) or maybe water in the float bowls from fueling up(?). I tried it again today and this time there was no *click* sound. I also noticed that the -neutral- and -check engine oil- lights which normally light up quickly at start up take a few seconds before lighting up. Now I think it's more in the electrical section but not exactly sure which area. I'm going to take a look at the spark plug and maybe try to drain any water out but was wondering if anyone had any other ideas?When you press start, the churning sound you (typically) hear is from the starter motor forcibly turning the crankshaft. While the starter is physically turning the engine, the engine is also injecting the fuel/air mixture into the cylinders and firing the spark plugs. If the plugs successfully ignite the incoming fuel/air mixture, the engine will begin turning itself over. If you press the button and nothing happens, or you just hear a click, the starter motor is not cranking the engine. The click you heard was probably the starter solenoid attempting to engage the starter to the flywheel of the crankshaft. The problem is probably the starter. It may be a bad battery. Reading the open voltage with no load on the battery tells you nothing. Put the voltmeter across the battery terminals and read the voltage while holding the Start button. ,,,