Laverda SFC 1000 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Hi, remove the caliper from the rotor, leaving the brake line conected, now lift the caliper higher than the master cylinder and re bleed the system with it in the higher position, this will force the air out up hill rather than the fluid gravity feeding when you bleed it in the normal position, poor master cylinders on the rear brake, make sure your brake pedal returns fully check it isnt sticking and has some free play

Laverda specialists such as Wolfgang Haerter; OCT or Andy Wagner/Laverda Paradies can help. Some enterprising owners have replaced the electronic guts with an aftermarket unit whilst retaining the original housing.
There are a couple of possible causes to consider - duff electronic revcounter or aftermarket (DMC) electronic ignition fitted which needs a filter fitting to the revcounter wiring - again, the latter is obtainable from Laverda specialists. Check out Laverda forums such as www.laverdapedia.com/forum for more info (use the search facility)

Let me ask you , what is the voltage at the battery posts with engine running? If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

once the tank was topped up away we went again performance restored. The topic of fuel delivery has been touched before I know. The carbs float level and jets are OK so we can assume that the fuel delivery side of things is up to spec. I remember having a conversation with someone a few years ago on this topic and their comment was that either in the wiring loom or in the wiring diagram there was provision for an electric fuel pump. Can anybody confirm this? The problem is not new, I've noticed it on many previouse occasions, offcourse only on WOT applications such as Eastern Creeks long straight. To rectify the problem I propose to fit a low pressure electric fuel pump in the fuel pipe. It would need to be relatively small ofcourse. Any suggestions? ,I remember reading about the Gowanlock blokes running the DB1 at Bathurst and having similar problems,it took them ages to sort, it turned out to be the tank breather not flowing enough.How close to reserve was the fuel level.How many laps had you done,sounds like you think the head of the tank eg gravity feed is insuficent to meet demand after some fuel is used.I am sure you have thought about the obvious stuff eg ,,,

The A/C unit should be tilted back a little for proper dranage.
Also the drain line may be plugged. These are sometimes hard to find. The unit has to be taken apart to look inside behind the evap coil. Where the line comes through into the rear part of the cabinet. This can the be cleared with a straghtened coat hanger. lightly push the hanger into the drain line and clear debree. water will rush out if the line is blocked.

A good patch job (removing the tire and repairing with a patch on the inside of it) I feel is much better than a plug IMHO I used to do allot of automotive tire repairs with patches and can't remember if any actually came apart or became defective. The plug may have a tendency to loosen and leak. On the other hand allot of people would replace the tire just to have peace of mind with regards to motorcycle tires. 1500 miles is close enough to justify replacement. ,,

215 front 250 rear,,,

Try a new air cleaner, or strip down carbs and clean all jets .

Be sure you are using the correct weight of engine oil. Too heavy a viscosity will cause the problem you mention. In addition, it could be the clutch cable sticking rather than the plates. Have you lubricated that cable lately? Does anyone even do that any more?

Don't understand your problem but if you're looking for a Post Office. go to usps.com, enter zip code.

Need more info.No clutch actuation? Slipping? What's it doing or not doing?

Did your bike quit whilst it was running, or is the problem that it won't turn over on the starter when you try to start it?Position 1 of the ignition switch should allow the starter to be operated and the engine to fire up. Position 2 is for parking lights only. The ignition switch can suffer poor internal contacts with age. It may have been replaced with the wrong type of switch if you say it turns over in position 2. Have you checked the fuses? If they are OK, try bypassing the ignition switch completely.If you are running the original ignition, the control box under the tank can fail. Check that there is a spark on all three plugs. THEY ALL MUST BE KEPT EARTHED when turning the engine over to avoid destroying the ignition module.

The most common complaints are the poor gas mileage, weak electric starter, not as fast off the line as the Japanese bikes, slower top end speed, top heavy and not a good commuter bike. Additionally, dealers are few and far between. Install new spark plugs, clean the air filter, clean or at least drain the carbs to remove any water in the float bowls. Do a compression check to see if the valves need to be re-seated.

Jo - you need to explain what problems you are having!! The 1980 model had a cable operated mechanism. Vital that the clutch cable is smoothly routed with bends as big a radius as possible. Lubrication of clutch lever pivot and cable is vital too. Handlebar adjuster should be used to leave a small amount of slack. If the problem is getting the clutch to free off, then if the bike has been standing for a long time the plates can stick together. Have an answer for that...

Sterling Silver 244 (BMW) shade number 1 Dupont

All late 60's and 70's Laverda 750 twins are negative earth.
Buy the 'Green Book' ISBN-13:
978-0-9796891-0-9 - do not pay more than the cover price inc post.
For parts try Slaters or Motal in the UK. I buy from Laverda Paradies in Germany, does what it says on the tin - every time.
http://www.laverda-paradies.de
For info try http://www.laverdamania.net/menugb.htm and
http://www.iloc.co.uk/

how good is the battery check terminals are clean leads and all conections are good try remote battery and jump start it like a car if the problem goes away its your battery if not its the starter or solinoid or leads

one possible cause is that you dont have the correct clearances for the valves, if there is not enough clearance, once the engine gets hot and the valve expand, they can hold the valves open (usualy the exhaust valve)... this would cause low compression when hot making it hard to start.
hope it helps

try looking on e-bay for a book on your bikes or you could try to get a haynes service and repair manual
we call them " haynes the book of lies!" but they do help a bit so its realy unfair of us!!!