Kymco Venox 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 5

Chinese rubbish

Fuse replacement needed.

Chinese pish, get rid of it

CDI unit is located inside the front panel of the scooter.Behind front headlight.

If it will not crank then the battery is probably drainedCheck battery voltage with key on, key off & cranking & get back to meRide SafeBike-Doc

When you say the plug is hot, you presumably don't mean the spark plug so which plug is getting hot? Whichever plug it is it shouldn't be getting hot - heat is an indication of excess current flow or a poor contact. I suggest you add more information in the comments.

Check the motor for a dirty commutator. This will make the motor draw too much current.

Usually related to needing service or battery state. Remove the battery terminals and clean the battery posts and the connector on the wire. Fully charge the battery. Smear both with some Vaseline and reconnect. The code should be gone.

I wonder what your fault is .......................

I looked all through the manual and could not find a fuse box. It looks like they may all be inline single fuses.

Although these answers are correct many are not probably. Valves are not going to go out of adjustment during the off season etc. You need to simplify it. You need gas, fire (spark) and air for a motor to run. Usually it will be the fact that the carb was not ran dry at the end of the season and fuel stabilizer was not used so the carb is dirty. You can pull you plug and see if it is wet with gas or try some engine starting fluid sprayed in the carb. Dry plug means no gas, no run with starting fluid mean no spark. Make sure fuel is on and the obvious has already been done. 90% chance dirty carb.

WOW !
NUFF SAID . . .

The main fuse is located in the battery department under the floor mat.

what is kymco...we r answering world vise questions... i don't know this name tel me is this a car or a bike or any ales...

sounds like a spark plug problem or a cracked coil

Arriving at a fair price for any secondhand vehicle is very difficult and many variables should be considered though in the final analysis anything is only worth what the market will pay - if the seller asks too much the buyer will walk away. There are many publications providing guide prices for all manner of vehicles - but these are only a guide and some models tend to command higher prices because of a good reputation while other models with a reputation for trouble or high running costs can fall far below. No vehicle should be bought without a thorough inspection and price adjustments made for faults found and any pending work, taking due consideration of fair wear and tear. A service history is important but will affect the price only if it can be fully verified by the presence of official invoices and a vehicle should only reach the guide price if the literature pack, the full complement of keys, tools, accessories, etc. is present. The replacement cost of some of the modern keys can be eye-watering so it is important to think ahead. The presence of local dealer expertise and a spares service is worth a little extra and the absence of a local dealer drives the price down a little. I hope this helps...

Firstly, I don't know whether the vehicle has an immobiliser or other type of anti-theft or security system but it would be an unusual modern vehicle if it doesn't and if so it might be the cause of the non-starting. I am not familiar with the model but I expect it has many similarities with most modern vehicles where there is an engine management computer that drives the ignition coil and fuel injection system after processing information from a number of sensors. Replacing components without testing can be expensive and fruitless and unfortunately that needs a measure of experience and some specialised equipment.

Here is a forum talking about it. http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=4005.0

Hello ! Being an automatic shock, you can not manually interfere with it. If the shock is not working in the cold season, fault is the lack of power supply, or internal shock failure, more likely the thermistor pocket, creates problems by shortening it in most cases, or the connections of the slipper connectors etc. Check the presence of alternating voltage (12 volts) of power supply after starting the engine, with a small 12-volt bulb, or with a measuring device. With the engine off, disconnect the connectors, and with the Rx measuring instrument, also measure the thermal resistance of the thermistor, and the state of the contacts, you should find approximate 40-60 Ohms. Any deviation higher upwards or downwards, indicates a malfunction, and must be interfered with when it is removed. The construction shoe consists of a metallic capsule of the size of a cigarette filter, which at one end has a rod that comes in or out of the environment. At the other end is the thermistor, which is powered by a 2-wire the scooter's engine. This voltage heats the thermistor, which in turn heats the thermostatic capsule, it has an inertia to the piston's expansion, dictates the time for the heating of the engine, etc. at maximum cascade heating, rod relaxation will act and reduce excess gasoline, the engine entering normal speed. Hopefully, I was very helpful! Good luck

You've got a Ignition System Issue which narrows things down quite a bit. It's either the ignition switch that your key goes into, or an on/off(run/stop) switch, or it's a relay for the ignition systems(or starter relay), if it's none of those then it's the starter solenoid that you've been jumping with the screwdriver, it sounds like the starter is working as it should since it turns over- the reason it turns over but won't actually run is because the ignition system won't work unless the key is inserted and in the run position, or if there's any other on/off switch that controls your engine it could be there. I'm not familiar with this exact bike but this is a common issue with all motorized machines! You can bypass all of this but that requires running some wires and a couple of switches plus a relay or two- that's an option but don't do that as your issue is nothing major and would be easier to fix than to go through the trouble of re-wiring it all. Just start troubleshooting and eliminate one part at a time, check relays, fuses, and electrical connections first, then the individual components I listed above and check to make sure they have power coming in and out when/where they're supposed to. If your bike turns over but won't run and the key is on, and you have a functional Ignition system then you need to verify you have ignition by checking your coil's output. EASIEST way to do so is pull a spark plug and connect it to the spark plug wire as you normally would, then hold the spark plug against the engine to ground it and turn it over- you'll see if you have any spark jumping aroundbetween the spark plug's electrode and the base of the plug itself. Either way, you'll get this figured out now that you know where to start and what to check!