You don't mention which bearing it is or how you know that they've gone bad. In any case, here's a link to the service manual.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/13244097/Xciting-500-Service-Manual-ENG
kymco 500 has no air temp sensor,ecu reads water temp for coldstart enrickment.a new sender wont fix it ether,sender needs to read 10 degrees warmer to start
Something has to be draining your battery. Try to find out what is still pulling power. What could still be running even when your ignition switch is off. Usually it's the parking light. Depending on your make the last turn of your key after your lock, is a parking light notch. My Hyabusa has that kind of notch and I'm always being alerted that my back light is still on after I'm in the house.
If the battery won't hold a charge take it to an auto parts store. they'll usually check it for you on a load tester for free. Typically the issues of the battery discharging stem from the charging system. I would check the stator output as well as the regulator. More than likely your problems stem from those areas. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb
There's a button covered with rubber on the left side of the dashboard. Using a thin stick, push this firmly and hold (while the bike is running) for about 1 minute. Fixed.
Although these answers are correct many are not probably. Valves are not going to go out of adjustment during the off season etc. You need to simplify it. You need gas, fire (spark) and air for a motor to run. Usually it will be the fact that the carb was not ran dry at the end of the season and fuel stabilizer was not used so the carb is dirty. You can pull you plug and see if it is wet with gas or try some engine starting fluid sprayed in the carb. Dry plug means no gas, no run with starting fluid mean no spark. Make sure fuel is on and the obvious has already been done. 90% chance dirty carb.
Hi, Russell if you ask 10 different riders you will get 10 different answers. All oil is certified by the Oil Gods to perform under specific conditions for specific applications and any oil is better than no oil and if you're in a bind diesel oil works just fine. If your engine is air cooled never run automotive oil because normal motorcycle cylinder head temperatures run much hotter than water-cooled cylinder heads, make sure the oil is designed for motorcycles. Your owners manual recommends a specific type of oil that is designed to lubricate the engine parts to withstand the normal driving conditions the motorcycle was intended to be used for, end of story. Now for an analogy, your cars owners manual recommends using 87 octane fuel to power your engine for maximum performance and it does a wonderful job of achieving that goal. But you say 92 octane is better because it has a higher number and is more expensive, well guess what your car will not run any better and there are no long or short term benefits from running a higher octane fuel bottom line your car doesn't need it. Same thing with oil sure they make lubricants that can withstand the temperature of molten lava which you would need if you were planning to drive into an active volcano, don't waste your time and money on snake oil just use what your bike needs and your manufacturer recommends and nothing more. The oil weight grade is for ambient temperatures you expect to drive in between oil changes 20w50 covers 80% of all driving temperature conditions if your looking for a better oil that works in all temperature conditions, buy a Synthetic in the same grade from a reputable oil manufacturer I personally recommend AMSOIL just because they were the pioneers in synthetics and their load test numbers for wear put them in a class all by themselves and you can go longer and further in between oil changes. It's a little hard to find in stores but easily available online.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.putoline.com/en/product-recommendation/motorcycles-scooters-mopeds-quads-atv/kymco/hipster/hipster-125/51546/252809/#!/component:252809https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyhfqa3QP5kManuals Kymcohttp://kymcopartsonline.com/catalog/table_overview.php?s_fk_manufacturers_id=21&s_fk_model_yeOwner Manuals KYMCO
Remove the seat. There should be a large plastic box with ( I think ) 6 screws in it to remove the air box cover. Go for it, then remove the filter. Your now exactly half way done.
Arriving at a fair price for any secondhand vehicle is very difficult and many variables should be considered though in the final analysis anything is only worth what the market will pay - if the seller asks too much the buyer will walk away.
There are many publications providing guide prices for all manner of vehicles - but these are only a guide and some models tend to command higher prices because of a good reputation while other models with a reputation for trouble or high running costs can fall far below.
No vehicle should be bought without a thorough inspection and price adjustments made for faults found and any pending work, taking due consideration of fair wear and tear.
A service history is important but will affect the price only if it can be fully verified by the presence of official invoices and a vehicle should only reach the guide price if the literature pack, the full complement of keys, tools, accessories, etc. is present. The replacement cost of some of the modern keys can be eye-watering so it is important to think ahead.
The presence of local dealer expertise and a spares service is worth a little extra and the absence of a local dealer drives the price down a little.
I hope this helps...
Firstly, I don't know whether the vehicle has an immobiliser or other type of anti-theft or security system but it would be an unusual modern vehicle if it doesn't and if so it might be the cause of the non-starting.
I am not familiar with the model but I expect it has many similarities with most modern vehicles where there is an engine management computer that drives the ignition coil and fuel injection system after processing information from a number of sensors. Replacing components without testing can be expensive and fruitless and unfortunately that needs a measure of experience and some specialised equipment.
