Kymco Venox 250 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 9


Always fit the manufacturers recommended plugs.

Kymco Ninja 500R... | 38 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Andrew for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kymco, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2006 Kymco... | 179 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Andrew if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will idle and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging remove the leads and let the battery sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a volt meter, you should have 12.5 volts or better, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper load test on the battery and replace as necessary, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank, google " how to clean a motorcycle gas tank" find a couple forums to view the different options available.
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a carb dip or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
8. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2006 Kymco... | 744 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Sandra and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery must have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Fuel tank empty
11. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Faulty fuel pump.
15. Faulty pressure regulator.
16. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
17. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=11659.15
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Kymco... | 60 views | 0 helpful votes


strange but true I had a similar thing after going into my front area, what I had done is put the correctly wired wrong bulb in the indicator and vice versa into the side headlight, not an easy thing to do considering the two are physically separated but that's me, so then my side light was acting as indicator and my indicator was on constantly, in some way could you have done the same thing?

2003 Kymco... | 39 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Andrewand the usual suspects are:
1. Wheels and or tires worn or damaged.
2. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly.
3. Primary chain is badly worn or links too tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment.
4. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose.
5. Upper engine mounting bracket loose.
6. Ignition timing incorrect due to a poorly tuned engine.
7. Internal engine problem flywheels have shifted.
8. Broken frame.
9. Stabilizer links worn or loose.
10. Rubber mounts loose or worn.
11. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose.
12. Front engine mounting bolts loose.
13. Worn out or broken universal joint on shaft drive models.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem3.asp?M=kymco&T=xciting%20400
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Kymco... | 82 views | 0 helpful votes


Fixya does not sell rubber oil plugs.

Kymco... | 24 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, Ian for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kymco, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://tirepressure.com/kymco-stryker-motorcycle-tire-pressure
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Kymco Stryker 125 150 Service Repair Manual Download Download Manuals... $15
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KYMCO Stryker 125 User Manual

Kymco Stryker... | 172 views | 0 helpful votes


Sorry we have no keys for sale here. Contact the dealer for a key blank

Kymco... | 110 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Michael there are few things you need to look at when trying to troubleshoot your scooter for power loss. How does it sound? If you run it wide open throttle when warmed up, does it peak out? or stutter? is it loud, or very quite the symptoms can help decide what to try. When you are going full throttle, the engine should get to a high RPM and sound smooth here are a few things you should look for:
1. Plugging air intake- will start well cold, but be hard to warm up and not reach top speed. The engine will stutter at high RPM.
2. Open air intake- to much air or air cleaner is disconnected- engine will not have power at high speed, make vacuum cleaner sound. Acts like it's running out of gas. ( sounds almost the same as a dirty carburetor.)
3. Plugged exhaust port the engine sounds and runs good, but has no power. Slow to take off. Same as plugged muffler, but if the muffler is plugged you get a very smooth exhaust note at idle. Humming instead of pop pop pop pop.
4. Fouled spark plug- backfire. If you get backfire, pretty good chance the plug is fouled.
5. On models with belts, the gear ratio drops as the belt gets thinner (most hondas have belts).
6. On a moped with high mileage, the belt will cause slow top end speed if worn thin.
7. If you have a bike with chain drive in an oil bath and you "OVERFILL" the oil amount in the chaincase, that makes for slow running as it requires too much power to turn the oil.
8. If your engine does not rev up well and stutters or sputters, like when it is cold with the choke on, the engine is running too rich. (too much fuel).
9. Is the air filter soaked with oil? Clean with soap and water!
10. Is the air opening in the airbox plugged? Very common for a spider or mud wasp to build a nest in one of the intake holes.
11. On some scooters it is common to get a leaf stuck in the intake port of the airbox, causing a 10mph drop in top speed.
12. Don't try to adjust the screws on the side of the carb to get lean or rich, as they are for the idle circuit only.
13. The idle air screw should be about 1 1/2 turns out on most scooters.
14. Say your engine revs but kind of wheezes or acts like it runs out of gas it is common to have a buildup of hard carbon on the inside diameter of the hole in the main and pilot jets, and it must be carefully removed.
15. If your moped does not idle the pilot jet is likely plugged.
16. Anytime a moped has not been used for 1 year or more, and still has the same fuel in it, good chance you will need to clean the jets.
17. The poor quality of today's gasoline has made this a rather steady bet.
18. Mopeds are affected more than most vehicles because the small size hole the jet requires is easily plugged, even by thick oily fuel, or water.
19. Drain your carb once in awhile! Most have a screw of some type at the bottom (where the drain needs to be) of the carb.
20. Make sure the air boot to the airbox is not on wrong, kinked, hard and shrunken.
21. Don't oil the air filter if you got the stutters.
22. On some scooters, you can leave one snap loose on the airbox lid to allow it to crack open, to get full rpm.
23. "WARNING" too much lean out on the gas, and since the fuel cools the piston, the piston can "MELT"
24. Still slow? Check the muffler tip. Make sure no carbon buildup is inside the tip, stick something in as far as it will go.
25. Common on some scooters to have the tip bent over on a curb, then carbon up solid. common of all types to have the whole muffler plug.
26. When you have the muffler off, is it heavy?
27. Can you get the baffle out to see if the holes are plugged?
28. Check the exhaust port on the cylinder.
29. If you can't see all the way into the piston, use a mirror and a flashlight to make sure the piston is ok and the port is not plugged where it meets the piston.
30. Common on all models to plug here, Just scrape it out so the hole is full size again.
31. Don't worry about the small film on the inside of the port, I am talking about a very thin film that forms a wall in the exhaust port right next to the piston.
32. A 1 1/2 inch hole can be reduced to the size of a pea...... With a thin film of carbon.
33. If you can see the piston ok, it's not the problem.
34. If you are in doubt regarding your exhaust pipe being plugged, put your hand behind the muffler to see how much pressure is expelled. compare to another bike.
35. It should blow pretty good and have a distinct pop pop pop pop sound while idling, not a steady humming.
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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KYMCO INK 125 Service Manual
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Kymco... | 52 views | 0 helpful votes


Hello Anon,
You simply need to take it to a qualified professional and have them clean and set the carburetor,,, it will be fine after that,,,
good luck,,

2003 Kymco... | 25 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Jenni and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Kymco... | 216 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Richard for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Kymco, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2007 Kymco... | 151 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Ronnie the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department or eBay and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Kymco... | 29 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Michael and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day
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2013 Kymco... | 294 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Luis before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced you OEM lights with LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer. If no turn signals work the cause could be a faulty turn signal module or the connector going to it, look for corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion. If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function. If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction. If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first for corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, (the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender) then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire. If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector. If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2008 Kymco... | 401 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Victor start by inspecting the fan fuse for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Kymco... | 336 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, Optimus for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2010 Kymco... | 202 views | 1 helpful votes


12 volt battery should be 12-13.2 volts dc normal and 14.5-14.8 vdc at rpms if you only get 8.5 vdc then the charge system ( alternator /stator)is not working or the voltage regulator needs replacing

Kymco... | 31 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Victor you may have a charging system issue for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Kymco... | 124 views | 0 helpful votes

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