Kymco Stryker 125 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 6

hello again: Always best to buy parts direct from the manufacturer in Taiwan. If you just lost the 2 keys, you could ask a locksmith to just make you a new pair. A Kymco dealer should be able to supply replacement keys based on the lock number. https://www.google.com/search?q=kymco+like+150+replace+ignition+switch ..

Question edited for full make model cc. Likely to be yes. Test it with a multimeter. Service Manual https://kymco.at/pub/media/Download/Kymco/WHBVenox250.pdf https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+venox+no+ignition ..

Fault in drive lever. Lever does not reset. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1055934/Kymco-Super-8-Foru.html?page=57

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/892435/Kymco-Maxer.html?page=39#manual

It is here 80/65 - 8"

New Inner Tube 80/65-8 Black For Kymco Agility EQ35FA ...

https://www.wheeliegoodmobility.com > new-inner-tub... This is a New Inner Tube 80/65-8 Black For Kymco Agility EQ35FA Mobility Scooter. Please refer to the image. International shipping is available. ..

Moved Category from Cars & Trucks to Kymco. This is a known issue and the Kymco Forum says it may be from using an incorrect key. There is a workaround. https://www.google.com/search?q=2012+Kymco+50i+key+security+shutter+closes ..

WHAT DOES IT TELL YOU ON THE TIRE SIDE WALL

There are three possible sources of power. 1. The light control assay is a module that determines when to cut power to the lights when at idle or starting the engine... it can fail and prevent power from going to the lights. 2. The CDI. It sends a signal to the Light Control Module... if no signal, no lights. 3. The light switch. The wires can get lose and prevent power from going to the LCM. Start at the Switches. Test for power from the switch, if no power from the switch, make sure power is going to the switch. Flip the switch from low to hi beam too, test both lines. The CDI is a bit trickier to test but there is a wire to the LCM that can be powered when the bike is running (a bad CDI is diagnosed after everything else though as it is difficult to test and very unusual to happen). If power is going to the LCM, that rules out the switches. If you confirm power to the LCM, and power from the CDI (a signal from it at least), then its a bad LCM. But check your light bulbs before doing anything. If you bypass the LCM on an American bike (connecting the blue wire to the LCM to the blue wire from the LCM together), it will blow the fuse but some European and Phillipine models work without the LCM. LCM's and CDI's aren't cheap so have a professional confirm the parts are bad before replacing.

On my kymco foru midi the tyer presure is 25 to 28

Chinese rubbish

Fuse replacement needed.

Try eBay or a motorcycle part finder site And on the problem of it reoccurring difficult to say as need to know what damage was caused to piston and valves Was it just one rocker arm that broke or is the other damaged did the timing jump and piston hit open valves driving them up and breaking arm and damaging cam shaft lobes You really need to find out why and how it happened As it may require a complete timing system replacement on that cylinder cam shafts , rocker arms , valves ,drive sprockets top and bottom , drive chain and a piston

Chinese pish, get rid of it

CDI unit is located inside the front panel of the scooter.Behind front headlight.

If it will not crank then the battery is probably drainedCheck battery voltage with key on, key off & cranking & get back to meRide SafeBike-Doc

When you say the plug is hot, you presumably don't mean the spark plug so which plug is getting hot? Whichever plug it is it shouldn't be getting hot - heat is an indication of excess current flow or a poor contact. I suggest you add more information in the comments.

Check the motor for a dirty commutator. This will make the motor draw too much current.

Usually related to needing service or battery state. Remove the battery terminals and clean the battery posts and the connector on the wire. Fully charge the battery. Smear both with some Vaseline and reconnect. The code should be gone.

I wonder what your fault is .......................

I looked all through the manual and could not find a fuse box. It looks like they may all be inline single fuses.