Hi, Dean before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 500 RI won start Scooter Troubleshooting Scooter won start All about ScootersKYMCO XCITING 500 Service Manual Kymco Parts Online Kymco Parts monster https://www.kymcousa.com/admin/dealeronly/ownerman/onroad/Xciting250-500_pre2008.pdf
Hi, Pete you may have squeaked your top end this is commonly known as "HEAT SEIZE" the piston heats up expands and becomes extremely tight in the cylinder bore and usually occurs mainly on 2 cycle engines right after a fresh top end rebuild, but it can also happen to brand new motorcycles, these are rare instances due to better quality control and education. Overheating failures that cause pistons to seize are many and each one should be carefully diagnosed to prevent future repeat offenders and the usual suspects are:
1. Lack of lubrication due to low or no oil.
2. Among the causes of lack of cylinder, lubrication is clogging of lubricator by dirt or waste, obstruction in oil pipes/lines, leaky check valves, leaky pump packing, broken oil pipe/line, oil too cold to feed.
3. Wrong type of oil used in premix or oil tank.
4. Improper premix ratio you should start with 32:1 as a baseline.
5. New rebuild piston to cylinder tolerances set up too tight.
6. Failure to follow proper break-in procedures with a 16:1 premix ratio.
7. Loose fasteners causing intake, base, or head gaskets to leak or blown crankshaft seal, failure caused by age, overheating or walking.
8. Holes in the intake manifold bent or warped intake flange or reed cage any stray air coming into a cylinder will cause a super lean condition.
9. Improper assembly of reed valve gaskets.
10. Insufficient warm-up time for temperature conditions before WOT.
11. Broken, pinched or cracked fuel line.
12. Carburetor fuel passages clogged or restricted from stale fuel varnish, ethanol sludge, dirt, rust, or fuel level in float bowl too low.
13. Main jet size too small or partially clogged
14. Air filter improperly installed, missing or not sealing.
15. Faulty or improperly adjusted oil pump and or cable.
16. Failure to bleed oil pump after a rebuild/replacement or running oil tank dry.
17. Engine coolant level too low, too old, or improper mixture ratio.
18. Radiator clogged, fins damaged, or faulty cap.
19. No liquid circulation due to failed oil or water pump.
20. Cavitation due to air in oil or coolant system.
21. Water and oil mix due to a blown head gasket.
22. Timing retarded due to faulty CKP sensor or CDI.
23. Improper spark plug heat range (too hot) and or gap.
24. Excessive engine load, brakes dragging, clutch slipping, transmission lubricant level too low or viscosity to high.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Kymco ZX50 SC10 motor build AF16 clone 49ccScoot com Scooter Forums 50cc KICKSTARTER PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS KYMCO ZX Service Manual Fever 1 50 ZX50 KCA SA10AL Kymco Scooter Parts Racing Planet USA KYMCO ZX 50 User Manual
Hi, Graeme the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day KYMCO ZX SCOUT 50 Service Manual Kymco Scooter Parts ATVs Scooter Parts Performance Scooter Parts... KYMCO ZX 50 User Manual Kymco ZX 50 2006 Kymco Wikipedia
the sump plug will be on the bottom of the engine but theseold Honda copy (GY) engines don't use an oil filter they have a wire mesh gauze screen that sits on top of the sump plug bolt so make sure this comes out with the sump plug and is free from any dirt/debris. so drain oil clean the gauze screen then refit and refill your oil. check your oil level if its low or black and burnt this could be your over heating problem but I would also check to make sure the auto choke isn't sticking on. Best of luck hope this is of some help
this means you have to keep checking your oil more often, try this clean a big portion around the oil dripping make sure is clean when you finish you can turn the moped on give it a little gas,right away check for the oil leak once you spot it that would be your starting point.
Hi, Jason if you have changed your engine size, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Kymco Super 8 50 2T BBK Tuning Help 49ccScoot com Scooter Forums Carburator Theory and Tuning KYMCO SUPER8 50 2T Service Manual Kymco Scooter Parts ATVs Scooter Parts Performance Scooter Parts... http://absolutelyscooterparts.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf
I had something similar on a 600cc Honda. The choke cable had been caught under the tank and didn't retract properly. However if the bike has been sitting for a long time start by checking the plugs, then the air filter then the fuel filter if its easily accessible.
Ok that's the obvious stuff out of the way fuel starvation can occur in older Kawasaki's where the carbs ice up. But I suspect if your bike hasnt been run much either the plug leads or coils are shot or one or more of the main jets in the carbs is blocked.
Hi, Anonymous if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Motorcycle Views How To Get Stored Motorcycle Running Motorcycle Repair Kymco People 50 2001 2012 Workshop Repair Service Manual Download Manuals... $15 Kymco Scooter Parts ATVs Scooter Parts Performance Scooter Parts... KYMCO PEOPLE 50 Owner Manual