Kymco People S 200 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 6

A large screwdriver will break open the seat clamp.

Check drive chain tension and lubrication. Also check for excess wear on drive sprocket.

Try dissconnecting the Negative Terminal on the Battery. Leave off for a minute or so, should reset it.

Although these answers are correct many are not probably. Valves are not going to go out of adjustment during the off season etc. You need to simplify it. You need gas, fire (spark) and air for a motor to run. Usually it will be the fact that the carb was not ran dry at the end of the season and fuel stabilizer was not used so the carb is dirty. You can pull you plug and see if it is wet with gas or try some engine starting fluid sprayed in the carb. Dry plug means no gas, no run with starting fluid mean no spark. Make sure fuel is on and the obvious has already been done. 90% chance dirty carb.

WOW !
NUFF SAID . . .

Hi, Russell if you ask 10 different riders you will get 10 different answers. All oil is certified by the Oil Gods to perform under specific conditions for specific applications and any oil is better than no oil and if you're in a bind diesel oil works just fine. If your engine is air cooled never run automotive oil because normal motorcycle cylinder head temperatures run much hotter than water-cooled cylinder heads, make sure the oil is designed for motorcycles. Your owners manual recommends a specific type of oil that is designed to lubricate the engine parts to withstand the normal driving conditions the motorcycle was intended to be used for, end of story. Now for an analogy, your cars owners manual recommends using 87 octane fuel to power your engine for maximum performance and it does a wonderful job of achieving that goal. But you say 92 octane is better because it has a higher number and is more expensive, well guess what your car will not run any better and there are no long or short term benefits from running a higher octane fuel bottom line your car doesn't need it. Same thing with oil sure they make lubricants that can withstand the temperature of molten lava which you would need if you were planning to drive into an active volcano, don't waste your time and money on snake oil just use what your bike needs and your manufacturer recommends and nothing more. The oil weight grade is for ambient temperatures you expect to drive in between oil changes 20w50 covers 80% of all driving temperature conditions if your looking for a better oil that works in all temperature conditions, buy a Synthetic in the same grade from a reputable oil manufacturer I personally recommend AMSOIL just because they were the pioneers in synthetics and their load test numbers for wear put them in a class all by themselves and you can go longer and further in between oil changes. It's a little hard to find in stores but easily available online. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.putoline.com/en/product-recommendation/motorcycles-scooters-mopeds-quads-atv/kymco/hipster/hipster-125/51546/252809/#!/component:252809 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyhfqa3QP5k Manuals Kymco http://kymcopartsonline.com/catalog/table_overview.php?s_fk_manufacturers_id=21&s_fk_model_ye Owner Manuals KYMCO

The main fuse is located in the battery department under the floor mat.

what is kymco...we r answering world vise questions... i don't know this name tel me is this a car or a bike or any ales...

Remove the seat. There should be a large plastic box with ( I think ) 6 screws in it to remove the air box cover. Go for it, then remove the filter. Your now exactly half way done.

sounds like a spark plug problem or a cracked coil

Arriving at a fair price for any secondhand vehicle is very difficult and many variables should be considered though in the final analysis anything is only worth what the market will pay - if the seller asks too much the buyer will walk away. There are many publications providing guide prices for all manner of vehicles - but these are only a guide and some models tend to command higher prices because of a good reputation while other models with a reputation for trouble or high running costs can fall far below. No vehicle should be bought without a thorough inspection and price adjustments made for faults found and any pending work, taking due consideration of fair wear and tear. A service history is important but will affect the price only if it can be fully verified by the presence of official invoices and a vehicle should only reach the guide price if the literature pack, the full complement of keys, tools, accessories, etc. is present. The replacement cost of some of the modern keys can be eye-watering so it is important to think ahead. The presence of local dealer expertise and a spares service is worth a little extra and the absence of a local dealer drives the price down a little. I hope this helps...

Firstly, I don't know whether the vehicle has an immobiliser or other type of anti-theft or security system but it would be an unusual modern vehicle if it doesn't and if so it might be the cause of the non-starting. I am not familiar with the model but I expect it has many similarities with most modern vehicles where there is an engine management computer that drives the ignition coil and fuel injection system after processing information from a number of sensors. Replacing components without testing can be expensive and fruitless and unfortunately that needs a measure of experience and some specialised equipment.

Here is a forum talking about it. http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=4005.0

Hello ! Being an automatic shock, you can not manually interfere with it. If the shock is not working in the cold season, fault is the lack of power supply, or internal shock failure, more likely the thermistor pocket, creates problems by shortening it in most cases, or the connections of the slipper connectors etc. Check the presence of alternating voltage (12 volts) of power supply after starting the engine, with a small 12-volt bulb, or with a measuring device. With the engine off, disconnect the connectors, and with the Rx measuring instrument, also measure the thermal resistance of the thermistor, and the state of the contacts, you should find approximate 40-60 Ohms. Any deviation higher upwards or downwards, indicates a malfunction, and must be interfered with when it is removed. The construction shoe consists of a metallic capsule of the size of a cigarette filter, which at one end has a rod that comes in or out of the environment. At the other end is the thermistor, which is powered by a 2-wire the scooter's engine. This voltage heats the thermistor, which in turn heats the thermostatic capsule, it has an inertia to the piston's expansion, dictates the time for the heating of the engine, etc. at maximum cascade heating, rod relaxation will act and reduce excess gasoline, the engine entering normal speed. Hopefully, I was very helpful! Good luck

You've got a Ignition System Issue which narrows things down quite a bit. It's either the ignition switch that your key goes into, or an on/off(run/stop) switch, or it's a relay for the ignition systems(or starter relay), if it's none of those then it's the starter solenoid that you've been jumping with the screwdriver, it sounds like the starter is working as it should since it turns over- the reason it turns over but won't actually run is because the ignition system won't work unless the key is inserted and in the run position, or if there's any other on/off switch that controls your engine it could be there. I'm not familiar with this exact bike but this is a common issue with all motorized machines! You can bypass all of this but that requires running some wires and a couple of switches plus a relay or two- that's an option but don't do that as your issue is nothing major and would be easier to fix than to go through the trouble of re-wiring it all. Just start troubleshooting and eliminate one part at a time, check relays, fuses, and electrical connections first, then the individual components I listed above and check to make sure they have power coming in and out when/where they're supposed to. If your bike turns over but won't run and the key is on, and you have a functional Ignition system then you need to verify you have ignition by checking your coil's output. EASIEST way to do so is pull a spark plug and connect it to the spark plug wire as you normally would, then hold the spark plug against the engine to ground it and turn it over- you'll see if you have any spark jumping aroundbetween the spark plug's electrode and the base of the plug itself. Either way, you'll get this figured out now that you know where to start and what to check!

Check that your fuel pump is working.

Check all wiring connections and especially those on the battery, starter, and starter solenoid(if seperare from battery). It sounds like something is just making a bad connection since it won't even turn over- I bet your problem is in this area, good Luck and if I've been helpful please click the green button to let me know, Habe A Great Day!

Can be a loose / bad connection somewhere in the high current starter circuit, or a flat battery. Did it start ok a few times when you put in the new battery? Yes >> not charging the battery (or not charged when fitted). No >> Bad connection between battery and frame or between battery and main ignition key power connection point (usually to a fuse). The cause of solenoid clicking is the voltage dropping dramatically when the starter current begins to flow, usually a flat battery or a loose or dirty connection in the starter current circuit (will generate heat when clicking which can help you find it).

Your first option is to check the basics. Is there fuel in the tank? Yes, I know that sounds silly but I have done it! Check that the fuel lines all the way from the tank aren't blocked. Is there a fuel tap, (petcock), fitted? They usually have a gauze filter built into them that might need cleaning. Is the fuel filter a new one? When was the last time the carb was overhauled?

Give her a lot squirts of WD40 while you push button in and out and your see the muck and dirt dribble out WD40 that Is your best friend