Kymco Hipster 125 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 6

Firstly, I don't know whether the vehicle has an immobiliser or other type of anti-theft or security system but it would be an unusual modern vehicle if it doesn't and if so it might be the cause of the non-starting. I am not familiar with the model but I expect it has many similarities with most modern vehicles where there is an engine management computer that drives the ignition coil and fuel injection system after processing information from a number of sensors. Replacing components without testing can be expensive and fruitless and unfortunately that needs a measure of experience and some specialised equipment.

Here is a forum talking about it. http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=4005.0

Hello ! Being an automatic shock, you can not manually interfere with it. If the shock is not working in the cold season, fault is the lack of power supply, or internal shock failure, more likely the thermistor pocket, creates problems by shortening it in most cases, or the connections of the slipper connectors etc. Check the presence of alternating voltage (12 volts) of power supply after starting the engine, with a small 12-volt bulb, or with a measuring device. With the engine off, disconnect the connectors, and with the Rx measuring instrument, also measure the thermal resistance of the thermistor, and the state of the contacts, you should find approximate 40-60 Ohms. Any deviation higher upwards or downwards, indicates a malfunction, and must be interfered with when it is removed. The construction shoe consists of a metallic capsule of the size of a cigarette filter, which at one end has a rod that comes in or out of the environment. At the other end is the thermistor, which is powered by a 2-wire the scooter's engine. This voltage heats the thermistor, which in turn heats the thermostatic capsule, it has an inertia to the piston's expansion, dictates the time for the heating of the engine, etc. at maximum cascade heating, rod relaxation will act and reduce excess gasoline, the engine entering normal speed. Hopefully, I was very helpful! Good luck

You've got a Ignition System Issue which narrows things down quite a bit. It's either the ignition switch that your key goes into, or an on/off(run/stop) switch, or it's a relay for the ignition systems(or starter relay), if it's none of those then it's the starter solenoid that you've been jumping with the screwdriver, it sounds like the starter is working as it should since it turns over- the reason it turns over but won't actually run is because the ignition system won't work unless the key is inserted and in the run position, or if there's any other on/off switch that controls your engine it could be there. I'm not familiar with this exact bike but this is a common issue with all motorized machines! You can bypass all of this but that requires running some wires and a couple of switches plus a relay or two- that's an option but don't do that as your issue is nothing major and would be easier to fix than to go through the trouble of re-wiring it all. Just start troubleshooting and eliminate one part at a time, check relays, fuses, and electrical connections first, then the individual components I listed above and check to make sure they have power coming in and out when/where they're supposed to. If your bike turns over but won't run and the key is on, and you have a functional Ignition system then you need to verify you have ignition by checking your coil's output. EASIEST way to do so is pull a spark plug and connect it to the spark plug wire as you normally would, then hold the spark plug against the engine to ground it and turn it over- you'll see if you have any spark jumping aroundbetween the spark plug's electrode and the base of the plug itself. Either way, you'll get this figured out now that you know where to start and what to check!

Check that your fuel pump is working.

Check all wiring connections and especially those on the battery, starter, and starter solenoid(if seperare from battery). It sounds like something is just making a bad connection since it won't even turn over- I bet your problem is in this area, good Luck and if I've been helpful please click the green button to let me know, Habe A Great Day!

Can be a loose / bad connection somewhere in the high current starter circuit, or a flat battery. Did it start ok a few times when you put in the new battery? Yes >> not charging the battery (or not charged when fitted). No >> Bad connection between battery and frame or between battery and main ignition key power connection point (usually to a fuse). The cause of solenoid clicking is the voltage dropping dramatically when the starter current begins to flow, usually a flat battery or a loose or dirty connection in the starter current circuit (will generate heat when clicking which can help you find it).

Your first option is to check the basics. Is there fuel in the tank? Yes, I know that sounds silly but I have done it! Check that the fuel lines all the way from the tank aren't blocked. Is there a fuel tap, (petcock), fitted? They usually have a gauze filter built into them that might need cleaning. Is the fuel filter a new one? When was the last time the carb was overhauled?

Give her a lot squirts of WD40 while you push button in and out and your see the muck and dirt dribble out WD40 that Is your best friend

Check the ignition coil.

possible bad batteries not taking a charge dirty /loose battery terminals will do that also

Based on the number of repair question on this brand I assume they are just junk, sell it.

First, I'm not a Kymco representative. * Check your warranty. Call for service. * https://www.kymcousa.com/ Following is for information only.*** * Manual; https://www.kymcousa.com/admin/dealeronly/ownerman/onroad/Xciting250-500_pre2008.pdf * Contact Kymco for advice. Aloha, ukeboy57

I have the exact same issue. Did you solve problem?

More than likely the ignition module is the cause or the ignition pickup.

Error code 2 is a motor fault, normally brushes. Companies charge a call out fee to send an engineer to you or you can always send it back yourself.

carb,air filter?if it is only downhill maybe the chain can't keep up since you are at max.auto clutch?that's something different.good luck.

there are no fuel filters on the Venox 250

I did find this... CONTACT them and ask about a manual ~ perhaps they know WHO to contact? http://www.mobility-shops.com/products/886/kymco-midi-xl--mobility-scooter-eq35ba Kymco Midi XL Mobility Scooter EQ35BA

Check all the bolts, you lost compression.