kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 9

Make sure your battery has a full charge and if that doesnt help then follow wires look for wroghted out or looses and disconnected wires from your ignition to your starter to even the plug wires also make sure the bies in neutral and the clutch is fully in!

Spin the engine and recheck, the coils should receive voltage alternately

There is supposed to be a tube on the bottom of every carb that goes towards the back of the engine and to the ground, it is only an overflow tube.

The head should come off with out engine removal

Hi, best thing is to get the tyre removed and fitted at a reputable garrage, not sure if you have a brand new wheel, in which case you will need to remove and replace the bearings and seals from the wheel, seals just push in and bearings are a tight fit and often need renewing when removed, fit into new wheel in the same way, using a lite grease when re fitting, most discs are handed left and right, locate the direction of rotation markings which you will find on one of the spokes on the wheel, remove discs 1at a time and replace on to new wheel on the same side as that it was previously fitted on the old wheel, good luck

did you check ignitor box

Standard is 1 & 1/2 turns out- Using a infra red Gas analyser, I found they would run the best between 2 & 2 & 1/2 turns out.try to search for the setting with the smoothest idle. So yes- you seem to have it set correctly.
Regards Andrew Porrelli

Try Babbitt's. Please rate my answer. www.babbittsonline.com

sounds like your sift fork may be bent

After removing the tank and airbox, loosen the clamp screws securing each carb to the inlet stubs, these can be sometimes difficult to get at and time consuming, also unclip the idle screw from its bracket, remove the choke cable and throttle cable-s from the carbs, some models have water pipes fitted 1on each side of the bank of carbs, once removed have a screw ready to push into the pipe to stop the coolant leaking, if you have difficulty undoing the screws securing the carbs, grasp the bank of carbs from behinde, at the top pulling towards you normaly is enough to remove them as the retaining screws are not always tightly secured but often difficult to see, once removed you can then prepare the screws ready for re fitting the carbs

Its Candy Lightning Blue... there is no color code... you Top coat is 3710 base coat is 1999

ColorRite

Has the bike been setting up over winter or for a length of time over a couple weeks, with gas in the gas in the tank? If so, the ethanol additive to gas has caused the fuel to gum up and block carb jets and passages. My recommendation, if setting up is the case is to put a can of SeaFoam in the fuel tank, shake the bike back and forth to mix the fuel and SeaFoam. Start the bike and run at high idle for a few minutes. Shut it down and let set a couple hours and start and run at high idle again. Repeat this several times trying to accelerate. If it's a gum problem, it should clean itself up with one can of SeaFoam. If it doesn't, it could be an adjustment problem, or the carbs will need a manual cleaning.

This may differ from model to model, as a rough guide with standard jetting, 2.5 to 3 turns out, screw the air corrector screw home (in) all the way until it stops using no force, as soon as you feel it is home stop, then unscrew the screw 5 half turns which equates to 2.5 full turns as a base setting, any furter addjustments should be done in half turn increments in or out untill the bike runs at its best

yes it is

its more than likely your coil going bad but it all depends on which cylinders.

I am unsure which washers you are asking about. You can go to the web site below and view an exploded diagram of the swing arm and rear wheel components. Do the "PARTS SEARCH BY MODEL" option. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com

hi there

i found this video for you shows you exactly what to do

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_mqpZhsvik


hope this helps

John

My research shows that the damper also fits ZX10R (2004-2005). I would use caution when crossing bike parts. The part numbers are the same with a suffix letter different. This indicates a variation in the part. So although it may bolt up and perform the same, there is some difference.
Ride Safe.

unfortunatey you may not be able to fix this, speedos generally run from a sensor or cable at the front axle, and rely on the rotating wheel, and are not generally able to be calibrated.
An instrument tech amy be able to do something if your model?? has an electronic speedo, but the reading can change with different tyre sizes, and even slightly as the tyre wears

You really need to re-post your problem. Tell us what brand your scooter is and also tell us what year, and model it is. Then tell us what is broken; it won't start, the front brake will not work, the clutch will not engage, the headlight doesn't work, horn doesn't work, what part is broken?? Also tell us what you have tried to do to it to fix it and any recent repairs that have been done. With this information one of the experts may be able to help you. Without the information no one can even try.