kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 6

they dont go from tank to carbs they go from tank to fuel tap then from fuel tap to carbs.

You can buy a lowering kit for a range of bikes, simply replacing the linkage on the lower of the suspension will reduce the rideheight by a preset determined amount check out ebay item 310343894620

Hi, you will need to get yourself a set of vachume gauges, you will connect 1of these gauges to each of the vachume pipes on each cylinder on the carb inles maniflold.you will run up the engine to normal temp having first replaced any worn spark plugs,it is not ness to get all of the hauges reading exactly the same while the engine is running, 1 increment indifferance would be allowed if you cannot reach exactly the same. The tickover screw addjusts number 3 carb, and the rest are fine tuned by the spring loaded screw between the other carbs, if they are close enough when you check them initialy, leave them alone and recheck at a later date, hope i have explaned to your satisfaction, not a job for the faint hearted, any probbs contact me and i will reply on earlyest convenience, paul

What make and model alarm do you have also describe what happens when you pres the fob to disarm the alarm

The ZX6, as with most four-cylinder motorcycle engines, is mounted transversely in the frame. When sitting on the bike, the cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4 left to right.Firing Order: the firing order is 1-2-4-3. There is no distributor for the engine, as ignition is controlled electronically.Extra Ignition Information: there are only two ignition coils for this engine. Each coil has two spark plug wires. One coil fires cylinders 1 and 4. The other fires cylinders 2 and 3.Addtional details in this link: images/4/45/ZX600E13.PDFhope this helps (remember to rating this free answer).

Assuming the bike is yours to ride, you could, simply remove the ignition switch, unscrew the plastic lower and separate the switch from the lock and then turn the the centre of the switch with a screwdriver until the ignition lights up, when the lock is removed take it and have a new key cut.

Just follow this instructions:

1 Unbolt the brake caliper from the front fork or rear swingarm, using a socket wrench. Use a 14-mm hex socket to unscrew the front caliper bolts, and a 6-mm Allen socket for the rear caliper.
2 Slide the caliper off the brake rotor. Suspend the caliper from the handlebars or frame, if needed, using a bungee cord.
3 Pull the hair clip pin out of the brake pad's retaining pin on the outside face of the caliper using a pair of needle-nose pliers. Push the retaining pin out of the back of the caliper with your finger.
4 Pull the brake pads and their spring clip out of the caliper. Retain the spring clip, and discard the brake pads.
5 Reinstall the brake calipers, following the reverse method of removal.

I hope this will help you. thanks

Just a shot in the dark here. I would check for (1) Fuel filter. (2) restriction in fuel line to the fuel pump. then, the fuel line from the pump to the carb's . Even though you have a filter there is a small screen in the main fuel inlet to the carbs. Next this could be a weak pump. As the fuel bowls fill up you have a supply of fuel to start and run for a few minutes, as you use that fuel the pump is not replenishing the fuel in the bowls, and you run out of fuel. As you sit still, fuel goes back in the carbs and she starts up. Look for a restriction or weak pump.

reservoir is mounted on the handle bars

Pull the wire from the horn and check for voltage when you press the horn button. If you have voltage 12vdc. the horn is bad. Check to be sure there is a good ground to the frame and in the wiring. If you have two wires, one is a ground, one is hot from the button when pressed.

Hi, thats a nice easy one, first support your bike on a stand so the wheel is clear of the ground, remove the locking pin from the rear axle nut if fitted, to make life easyer undo the two bolts securing the caliper to the bracket and lift the caliper clear of the disc, next put a piece of wood or similar to support the rear wheel when you remove the spindle, the spindles on these bikes can become seized and difficult to remove (wor

i would remove and inspect the starter sounds like it is breaking down electrically and not spinning fast enough to mesh. brushes may be worn.

The fix is going to cost more than the bike is worth. The shop labor will be at least $950. Parts cost is additional and 2 gaskets are $20 each, pistons are $40, rings are $30 per set, cylinder inserts are $72 each. That puts the parts cost around $625. That's around $1558 total. The repair is not for the home mechanic.

u can go to library sec629-many cycles books--*** bikes are similar--a manual to a mechanic is the same as his tools-sayonara

This problem is the alternator is not charging. You will need to trouble shoot the stator, rectifier/regulator. You will need a volt/ohm meter. It is best to get you a good manual. But as always check your fuses. The stator will produce AC voltage in about the 27 - 32 volts AC range at idle. Unplug the stator and check for voltage there at this plug when idling. Next plug the rectifier back in and check for voltage at the battery at idle, should be in the 14 volts DC range. If you are getting the proper AC voltage at the two wires on the stator and only battery voltage at the battery, then your rec/reg is not doing its thing. Hope this helps FixYa up.

get the serial number off the bike and bring it with you ownership papers to a kawi dealer and they can order you a new key. Cheaper then replacing the ignition.

check the charging system, sounds like it's not keeping the battery charged. You can check it easily with a volt meter. Set the meter on direct current and test voltage directly at the battery. With engine at 3500 RPM it should charging at least 13.6 volts.
I hope this helps.

If condensation in the gas tank makes it into the carbs, the float bowls will trap the water. Too much water and the bike will act as you have described. Drain the carb float bowls. With a little luck you will be back on the road.

Jst un screw end of cable of carbs

Most yoshimura exhausts have a large circlip holding in the baffle, some have an 8mm Bolt or alun head bolt, remove the retainer and grip baffle twist an pull slightly to remove some baffles have silicone around them to seal it which could hamper removal