kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 8

Just a shot in the dark here. I would check for (1) Fuel filter. (2) restriction in fuel line to the fuel pump. then, the fuel line from the pump to the carb's . Even though you have a filter there is a small screen in the main fuel inlet to the carbs. Next this could be a weak pump. As the fuel bowls fill up you have a supply of fuel to start and run for a few minutes, as you use that fuel the pump is not replenishing the fuel in the bowls, and you run out of fuel. As you sit still, fuel goes back in the carbs and she starts up. Look for a restriction or weak pump.

reservoir is mounted on the handle bars

Pull the wire from the horn and check for voltage when you press the horn button. If you have voltage 12vdc. the horn is bad. Check to be sure there is a good ground to the frame and in the wiring. If you have two wires, one is a ground, one is hot from the button when pressed.

Hi, thats a nice easy one, first support your bike on a stand so the wheel is clear of the ground, remove the locking pin from the rear axle nut if fitted, to make life easyer undo the two bolts securing the caliper to the bracket and lift the caliper clear of the disc, next put a piece of wood or similar to support the rear wheel when you remove the spindle, the spindles on these bikes can become seized and difficult to remove (wor

i would remove and inspect the starter sounds like it is breaking down electrically and not spinning fast enough to mesh. brushes may be worn.

The fix is going to cost more than the bike is worth. The shop labor will be at least $950. Parts cost is additional and 2 gaskets are $20 each, pistons are $40, rings are $30 per set, cylinder inserts are $72 each. That puts the parts cost around $625. That's around $1558 total. The repair is not for the home mechanic.

u can go to library sec629-many cycles books--*** bikes are similar--a manual to a mechanic is the same as his tools-sayonara

This problem is the alternator is not charging. You will need to trouble shoot the stator, rectifier/regulator. You will need a volt/ohm meter. It is best to get you a good manual. But as always check your fuses. The stator will produce AC voltage in about the 27 - 32 volts AC range at idle. Unplug the stator and check for voltage there at this plug when idling. Next plug the rectifier back in and check for voltage at the battery at idle, should be in the 14 volts DC range. If you are getting the proper AC voltage at the two wires on the stator and only battery voltage at the battery, then your rec/reg is not doing its thing. Hope this helps FixYa up.

get the serial number off the bike and bring it with you ownership papers to a kawi dealer and they can order you a new key. Cheaper then replacing the ignition.

check the charging system, sounds like it's not keeping the battery charged. You can check it easily with a volt meter. Set the meter on direct current and test voltage directly at the battery. With engine at 3500 RPM it should charging at least 13.6 volts.
I hope this helps.

If condensation in the gas tank makes it into the carbs, the float bowls will trap the water. Too much water and the bike will act as you have described. Drain the carb float bowls. With a little luck you will be back on the road.

no it will rub on the swinging arm

Jst un screw end of cable of carbs

Most yoshimura exhausts have a large circlip holding in the baffle, some have an 8mm Bolt or alun head bolt, remove the retainer and grip baffle twist an pull slightly to remove some baffles have silicone around them to seal it which could hamper removal

Hello, the leak may be caused by the carb gaskets or seals drying out and splitting if the bike has been sat idle for a while.It may well be that the float for that carb is punctured and sits at the bottom of the float chamber. This will cause the needle valve to stay open and will allow the carb to flood all the time and fuel will leak.
Best advice I can give is be careful, get a manual, draw pictures or take photographs. Work in a well ventilated space with a markd out area for dismantling the carb.Do one carb at a time and do not mix any parts. As you dismantle parts use indelible marker or a small screwdriver to scratch location lines for re-assembly. Never trust your memory if it is going to take more than one hour to complete.
Make sure that you have the spares to complete the task befor taking anything apart.
Use masking tape to hold small parts in the sequence that they are dismantled.
Do not let your mates or children touch anything
Make sure the battery is disconnected before you start any work on the fuel system
Good luck jamesey555

hello carl...sounds like you might have a charging system problem. If you have a volt meter you can check it out. You can test at the battery. With the meter leads, red on positive, black on negative, you should have 13.5-14.5 volts direct current with engine at 3500 RPM. I hope this helps.

Hate to tell you, but you will need to pull the carbs off again. When cleaning the float needles, check for wear on the needles. Check to make sure the tip of the needle is pointed without any grooves wore in tip and the 4 "corners" of the needle are not getting flat. Also check for wear in the needle seat where the float needle sits. The seat should be round, and with use it will wear grooves where the needle rides up and down with the float. If those parts are worn out it will not shut fuel off to the carburetor, especially on a gravity feed fuel tank. Let me know if this helps, Daniel.

Remove the rear seat the fuse box should be the black box there

u need to clean carbs change plugs and ballance the carbs start there sounds like someone has been messing with them check the jets havnt been changed if u bought it off someone

Don't take it apart then!C'mon, on a serious note, your not telling us what you are trying to put back together.