kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 8


You definitely need to have your carburetors thoroughly cleaned out and adjusted. Sound like pilot needle's lack of sealing that causes the bowls to overflow into the cylinders.

1997 kawasaki... | 93 views | 0 helpful votes


Yeah,..thats most likely the reason. Id be replacing that relay.

2001 kawasaki... | 209 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
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1999 kawasaki... | 220 views | 0 helpful votes


Service manual

http://rs485p10.rapidshare.com/cgi-bin/rsapi.cgi?sub=download&fileid=363755587&filename=bmanual.com_Kawasaki_Ninja_ZX_6R_98_99.zip&dlauth=0123456789

1998 kawasaki... | 62 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, John it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1996 kawasaki... | 483 views | 0 helpful votes


replace coils

1995 kawasaki... | 42 views | 0 helpful votes


Dude shift forks...no you dont have to spilt ****** can go threw oil pan just difficult since you are working under the bike....haynes manual will explain it all,,,im having same problem mine wont shift down and no cant get neutral...so gotta find a good place on the web to buy chaep good parts!

1996 kawasaki... | 307 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 kawasaki... | 263 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Firetiger551 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2001 kawasaki... | 96 views | 0 helpful votes


You have a short hard to find if in the loom usually is connection directly to the back of ignition. Probably has caused the coils to fail if you replace coil pack without fixing the short you will burn out the coils again. Does it send power to the coils sometimes when ignition is off? this will destroy your coils over time

1995 kawasaki... | 235 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging.
2. Bent shift shaft.
3. Shift fork bent or seized.
4. Gear seized on the shaft.
5. Gear positioning lever binding.
6. Shift return springs weak or broken.
7. Shift return spring pin loose
8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
9. Shift mechanism arm is broken.
10. Shift drum is broken.
11. Shift lever loose on the shift shaft.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1996 kawasaki... | 163 views | 0 helpful votes


well, my friend i suggest to change all your spark plug, after you've done it, then probably we have a changes...good luck buddy...

1996 kawasaki... | 178 views | 0 helpful votes


z_dogg, you do not need new carbs. Several issues may cause throttle sticking, and all of them are cheaper than a new set of carbs. Introducing a used set of carbs just introduces a new unknown set of potential issues.
This approach moves from easiest to most involved solution.
First, take apart the throttle at the handlebar. Clean the throttle tube, the part you twist to accelerate, and lubricate the throttle tube and throttle cable with penetrating oil like WD40. To get the lube into the cable I use a finger from a rubber glove with a small hole in the tip, slip it over the cable end and fill it with lube, then let it seep down into the cable. Best results ever. Re-assemble this end and test your results.
Second, if it is still sticking, check the cable routing. Often the cables get bent or twisted and cause binding that prevents free release. Make sure the cables are routed with no sharp bends, and the largest curves possible.
Third, disconnect the cable from the carbs and move the throttle linkage itself. If it snaps back into place, it is the cable not the carbs. If it does not snap back, lube the linkage at each carburetor while moving it and see if it frees up.
Fourth, if it still sticks, you will need to pull the carbs and clean them thoroughly inside. It may be the vacuum slides that are sticking open and keeping it from slowing down. It would be best to invest in a manual to guide you through this process. It can be done with a few cans of carb cleaner and careful handling of the parts.
All the best in your repairs!

1999 kawasaki... | 263 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Frank for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2000 kawasaki... | 339 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1995 kawasaki... | 289 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Amyl_woods82 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1999 kawasaki... | 192 views | 0 helpful votes


The cable has snapped.

1996 kawasaki... | 149 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

kawasaki ZX-6R... | 65 views | 0 helpful votes

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