kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 7

Hi, Ed98766 and the usual suspects are: 1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly. 2. Fuel filter clogged. 3. Fuel line pinched or kinked. 4. Vacuum line from the petcock to intake manifold cracked. 5. Float needle and seat sticking. 6. Float level too low. 7. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched. 8. Idle adjusting screw set too low. 9. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean. 10. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged. 11. Slow fuel jet clogged. 12. Faulty fuel pump. 13. Faulty auto choke or wiring connection. For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 97 ZX6R Turns over but won hold idle 2003 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R Idle and Stalling issue Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R 1995 2002 Service Repair Factory Manual Download... $15 OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

The problem with changing some motorcycle spark plugs is getting a socket to them--once you're able to slip a socket on the plugs, you can usually get an extension into it and a ratchet onto that. However, if you can't get at your spark plugs with a deep socket and regular extension, you might want to get a so-called "wobble extension" that lets you pivot something like 10-15 degrees while still having a solid connection to socket and to ratchet. I have used my 3" wobble extension quite a bit when dealing with motorcycle spark plugs that are deeply recessed. That set-up usually lets me get the socket and extension into the spark plug well in one piece, rather than dropping in a socket and fishing around with an extension to connect it up.

If you have a helper, you can have them apply the brake and maintain the fluid level while you bleed the old fluid off. If you don't have help, you can use a hand vacuum pump at the bleeder to draw out the old fluid while ensuring the fluid resivoir is kept full untill you see the new fluid coming through.

reservoir is mounted on the handle bars

If you have power to the coils have you checked that it is 12volts ?
If so then for some reason the Igniter is not switching the ground to the coils to produce your spark or it is and there's a break in the wiring/Bad connector or the Igniter is not getting the switching signal from the Pick up coil or again bad wiring/connectors---hope this helps.

Don't take it apart then!C'mon, on a serious note, your not telling us what you are trying to put back together.

sounds like it might be a Chinese made bike.you might try(ZHEJIANG CHAOZHONG MOTORS)good luck i had a hard time finding parts for mine.

Hello
The air filter on this bike is under the fuel tank, you will have to remove the seat and there will find the bolt holding the tank down, once this bolt is removed the tank will then just lift up.
Thanks

Chances are you have a bad dimmer switch.
Check and//or replace.

Remove right foot rest and it is on there

Follow the red (Positive) battery cable out away from the battery, you will find the main starter relay and with this relay is a main fuse under a plastic cover to the side. Check this fuse, if this fuse is ok. You need to check your wiring to/from the key switch. You can check the battery connection with a short wire and jump across the starter relay. Jump across the two large post of the relay. If the battery is hooked up and hot, the starter will turn. if all this is ok, you have a main harness problem. Hope this helps Fix Ya up.

Drain all the fuel and put super high test in it, look for cracks or any leaks from the heads and cylinder walls

7mm short lenth

The engine takes 10w-40 motorcycle oil.Trans and engine share oil. Antifreeze is a 50/50 mix.

try a new oil pressure sender.

other problems could be incorrectly fitted or faulty oil filter, stuck bypass in oil pump, or the wire has been dislodged or damaged off the oil sender

G'day,
I have a suggestion.
It worked with no airbox( airbox lid I guess you mean).
Then I would think that your problem would almost certainly be a blockage or restriction to the air flow entering the airbox intake.
Look in the airbox,with the lid off-And see where the air enters the box- the air ducts on each side.
Make sure these are clear of any obstruction.
Check the air intake vent in the front of the fearing for obstructions.
I feel pritty sure you'll find your problem here(I hope!).
See how you go
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli

When you first accelerate the carby injects extra fuel for take off, from the accelerator pump, if this is blocked than you will have a flat spot, which is what you are describing, you need to get the carburettors off and have them checked/serviced/cleaned, if your bike was injected than dirty injectors would give you the same problem.

Mark on the knob at 12 o'clock is ON, 6 o'clock is reserve, 3 or 9 o'clock is off.

There are adjustments on carbs for low speed air intake (air mixture screw)find out factory settings and reset that mixture.Sounds to me like those adjustments are out of sink.If so the bike will run very bad from idle to about 1/4 throttle then run great from there up to full throttle.this definitly sounds like carb problem.

It is down on the front of the carbs Raise up tank that will help you find it MOPAR KENNY