kawasaki ZX-12R - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

There's a filter inside your fuel pump housing that could be clogged...I tried for months to figure mine out ended up being that...

Hi,,,if your battery is not charging and you have a rebuilt staor,,then your regulator/rectifier is the cause,,its job is to charge the battery.

This is normal.. the two different wiring harnesses are NOT the same!! Get the CORRECT ONE if you expect it to work!!

Maybe fuel line issues.

Something like that sounds like he simply missed a connection on the upper harness. There is a connectors over and to the left side of the engine. Check all the connectors.

To change oil remove drain plug under bike, while oil is draining into pan remove left lower fairing and remove oil filter from front of engine. Replace plug and filter and refill, replace fairing.

The engine will fit in the frame but the head support will not bolt up. The timing is also very different on these two years. The heads would have to be switched, including the cams, so unless you are a seasoned mechanic I think you should avoid this one.

If you have replaced the stator, regulator/rectifier, and the battery I would suggest running continuity test on the wiring that is in the harness to check for breaks or bad connectors.

The thermostat, the water pump, clog, radiator cap, or fan switch are the usual suspects. Since you have already changed the switch the thermostat will be the next along with the radiator cap. The thermostat can be tested with boiling water by dropping removed thermostat in water slightly hotter than it's opening temp and it should open.

What it is saying is not f1. It is saying Fl >>> Fuel Injection. The injection sensors have detected a problem in the system. The problem could be anything from a dirty air filter to a fuel mapping error in the computer system. A dealer can hook up a code reader to see what the exact problem is.

Turbo zx12r running strong charging system

clean the carb out real good

Try removing the front sprocket cover most likely around there

I had the same issue on my GL1800. Turns out I had a bad ground in the brake light circuit. It was my major pin connector under the seat. I'm sorry if this doesn't help, but it sounds like a bad ground.Try checking the connectors for the rear brakes. Disconnect and clean each pin connector. If that doesn't work, maybe run a jumper line from a brake light ground to a frame ground source. If the lights come back on, the ground is the issue.

check the fuse, check to see if there is power to the light. check the light plug on the back, they do come loose if you ride like I do.

blub could be blown==light switch could be bad,sometime it will calcium over from the weather== may also have a bad headlight relay.

clutch is hot , change oil , do burnouts with clutch all the way out

somethings shorting out, use a multimeter to diagnose where its coming from, hope this helps

You should measure the fuel pump's supply first to check that the pump works ok.
When it dies, do you hear the pump pressing your ear against the fuel tank and turning the key to on position and your kill switch to on too?You should hear it working for 3 sec.If not working at all start by checking the pump's relay and then the pump itself.

There is sending unit in the tank.I would'nt fix it as it may be costly.Here is an easy solution each time you fill the tank zero the odometer.You shold get around 200Km on a full tank.Regardless of the mileage switch to reserve if your engine starts to sputter.You should get an additional 10 miles at reduced speed,which will get to a gas station.With experience you know your range on a full tank.If you choose my recomendation then remove or cover the low fuel light as it could be annoying