kawasaki ZX 10 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals
1989 Kawasaki ZX 10 clutch lever master cylinder jams up
...??.. the bore that the plunger rides in may be worn to the point of allowing it to bind... its a wear related thing..your bike/master cylinder IS 28 YEARS old...
Do a full master cylinder rebuild..if it does not fix it.. think about a NEW master cylinder..(a used one is NOT ok)..
Storage of motor cycles
in regards to storing a bike that might be sitting idle for a long period of time . You should remove the spark plugs and put a small amount of engine oil in each cylinder about a tea spoon of oil in each would do the trick as this will prevent the piston rings binding to the cylinder walls due to any rust build up and then replace the spark plugs, flushing out any extra fuel in the carbs and fuel line should also be done and perhaps some DW40 sprayed into the line and carbs as a protector for rubber parts etc , the fuel from your tank should be removed and some sort of rust protection sprayed into it (WD40 ) .If the bike is stored outside condensation can build up under plastic covers so spraying exposed parts like the front forks around the rear suspension and many nuts and bolts with WD40 will help , also a good waxing over the whole bike is helpful , remove the battery and try to keep the tiers off the ground or at least slip something under them so water will not perish the rubber , block the exhaust pipe so water can not enter but condensation can escape ( a tin can that fits over the muffler opening ) and i suggest that you move the bike by pushing it a few feet back and forth every 2 months to prevent any parts from locking up . one more final thought lock the bike up very secure making it difficult to be stolen as a parked bike sitting for a long time can attract criminals !
I have a Kawasaki 1988 ZX10 and there is a flat
If the problem is worse when warm then it may be rich.
try new oil, plugs and new air filter first.
also check for a flooding carb or leaking fuel tap, or bad diaphram in the fuel tap
clean the carbs, adjust the valves
if it still has problems then lower the needles 1 notch
keep notes on changes so you can change it back if there is no improvement or its worse
dyno jets may help if the jetting wrong or the exhaust has been altered from standard, but its not a miracle cure and wont help the starting on 3 cylnders problem which may be related
Took bike to mechanic for
dont know what bike you have, but there is no wires at tail light that will affect charging.
Most bikes have a stator that produces AC voltage powered by magnet in the flywheel, this then goes into a rectifier\regulator, which converts to DC and regulates voltage and then to the battery
The regulator will have 1 or 2 plugs and 5 wires 1 red 1black and 3 yellow or white
The plugs you describe sound like indicator or earth wires , a power wire wont have a male bullet
Hi , what is the
The stock battery is Yuasa brand, YB14L-A2. Be sure to keep the water level in the battery above the top of the plates in each cell. Also, check the voltage across the battery terminals while the bike engine is running around 2500rpm. The voltmeter should read around 14.5 volts. If it reads 15 or higher the voltage regulator is probably bad. Please take a moment to rate my answer. Thanks!
Oil level. Checked with engine
1. Oil level is checked with the engine off and the bike on its center stand so that the oil level is even across the engine.
2. Without knowing the model and year of your bike, it's not possible to suggest the oil capacity for your engine. Some engines have the maximum oil capacity molded into the engine case near the oil filler; others do not.
3. Your fuel petcock is vacuum activated. When the engine is running, a small amount of vacuum keeps the fuel flowing when the petcock is set to "On" (main tank) or "reserve" (emergency dregs of the tank). "Prim" stands for "prime," which permits fuel to flow without the presence of engine vacuum. You'd use this if you ran the bike out of gas and needed to get fuel to the carbs so that the engine could be started again. You don't want to keep your petcock set to "prime" for very long when the bike is turned off (or even when it's on) so that the carbs can't overfill. In extreme cases, you can fill your crankcase with gasoline, which can lead to hydraulic lock and the potential for serious engine damage if you try to run your bike like that (I've had that happen to me).
4. Again, without knowing the year and model of your bike, I am not able to provide any information about the spark plugs used by your bike. However, if your bike has 18mm spark plugs, you'll need an 18mm deep socket to install and remove them. I recommend using a 6-point over a 12-point socket for this purpose--and spending the extra dollar or two to get a good quality, brand name socket. I have never seen an 18mm "spark plug" socket, but if you're really concerned, you can take the little rubber insulator out of an old spark plug socket and stuff it in an 18mm deep socket. I have never bothered.
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