kawasaki ZRX 1100 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Check the spark plug gaps and set to 25thou or 0.9mm.
Hope that helps

I'm sorry,, If you cannot figure out how to do this, YOU NEED TO TAKE IT TO A PROFESSIONAL!!!!! You are not competent to work on this machine!!

make sure that the calliper body slides freely on the mounting pins check for excessive fluid in the master cylinder reservoir disc brakes have no return spring action and the pads are held of the rotor by air passing under the pads make sure that you have pedal to piston clearance (1" at the pedal before it contacts the brake piston

The first thing you need to do is to buy a service manual for your bike that has schematic wiring diagrams of the electrical system in it. Be careful to get a book that is just for YOUR bike--too many of these manuals try to cover related bikes from the same family, which leads them to presenting a lot of generic, vague, information, that MIGHT apply to your bike, but oftentimes does NOT. If you can't find the information you need, you wasted your money on the book! Once you have that, you can identify the wires (sometimes the diagrams are in color, but if they are not, there will be a color-code to tell you what color the different wires are.) Usually, these wires will terminate at some type of plug or connector which will go directly to the head light, or to the tail/brake light sockets. Then it is just a matter of 'making the connections.'

If you have a choke you have a carb(s). If it will only run on choke the low speed circuit is likely dirty/plugged. If it will run at medium or higher throttle on choke only you may have further carb pluggin gproblems and/or a plugged fuel filter or pinched line etc.

You need to describe better what you are calling your airbox vent. It sounds like there is a drain hole or port in the airbox to drain away raw fuel that might get in there by flooding. If so it is fuel system overflow or floodign that is causing raw fuel to be in the airbox.

Check this out. page 1-9. Kawasaki zrx 1100 zr 1100 Service manual Download service repair owner... Also, Fuel system is at section 2. 2-2 has a detail of the carburator.

have you checked the fan works by putting a live feed to it from battery ? fan heat sencer ok ?

Your carburetor (or carburetors) is in desperate need of a rebuild.

From your description, it sounds like a bad starter motor. That is provided all of the cables going from battery to relay, and relay to starter are not corroded or have poor connections. The relay is a weak point, so it may be damaged as well if the starter has been pulling too many amps.

hi there it sounds like the fourth gear cog has rounded off the part that slides in to the other gear[ can not rember right name for it] you can either replace the gear or get the gear back cut which gives the gear a more positive connection either way it means removing the gearbox hope this helps

If it is fuel injected then yes otherwise the injectors wouldn't work

what's the question regarding chain tension?

That smoke sounds like it could be steam from the hot water. Check the coolant level and replace if low with manufacturers approved fluid. Also, check for leaks after the engine has had time to warm up and build pressure. If it is leaking, you will need to pull the radiator and have it repaired or replaced.

fuel mixture could be the backfiring, the discharging is more than likely an aftermarket fitment. e.g alarm/ power supply socket or something of that nature. e.g. sat nav mount, heated grips etc.

Carbed or fuel inj

When the chain adjusters are nearing maximum adjustment range the chain is definitely ready to be replaced. Rapid stretching is not a good sign. It is good that you are concerned about the condition of the sprockets. Most guys don't even think a sprocket wearing out. Below is a diagram showing different wear patterns on sprockets.

Check all your fuel lines, make sure that they haven't perished. Also check all your fuel hose connectors make sure they are tight not constricting. If you have to tighten your hose clamps so tight that the pipe bulges, then your fuel hose is junk. If you only have those spring clips, get rid of them and put decent hose clamps on.
Take off your seat, and locate the breather pipe at the back of your tank. Make sure that this pipe is not blocked, if it is you'll get a pressure build up in your tank.
Check your air filter element, if it is clogged you will have an over powering fuel smell and you may even have weeping of fuel vapours as it condenses.
Check all your vacuum hoses make sure they are in good condition.
If you have a fuel tap sometimes they don't seal correctly and weep fuel.

When you cleaned the carbs was the idle too high or too low before the adjustment? I suppose a better place to start is when you cleaned the carbs, did you clean the fuel lines and flush the tank? If the carbs were fouled, you can be pretty sure the line and tank have crud in them as well. It could very well be that some of that crud made its way back into your carbs.

Did your bike set up over the winter or for a long period of time (overtwo or three weeks)? If so, the fuel/ethanol mix has gummed, partially closing off jets and passageways. Rather than go to the expense of tearing the carb/injector down, purchase a can of SeaFoam and pour half the can in your fuel tank. Ride the way you normally ride, and if that was the problem, you will notice a difference within thirty minutes to and hour of riding. Might check your aircleaner for cleanliness, also.