kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

It's quite likely that you do. Before doing so try searching online. I asked "where is the radiator cap .....?" and got loads of hits. It seems that it's under the tank and behind the steering rack.

The clutch is not engaging by the sounds of it ,does the clutch cable have some free play at the lever ?

Turn fuel petcock to off. Take off fuel line coming from petcock and use that hose, or one the same size, to run from petcock to gas container. (have paper towels or something ready because fuel left trapped in fuel line will leak out even with petcock off). With hose going in container turn petcock to normal "run" position and drain until dry - lean bike side to side to get it all. *Note - it usually drains faster with fuel cap off. Then turn petcock to "reserve" setting and do the same to get the fuel out of reserve partition in tank. Most tanks are only held on by a few bolts at rear and rubber "slide on" knobs at front, so if you remove seat and the few tank bolts you slide tank backwards and it comes off. Then you can do this draining outside / away from anything.

This is a common problem...electronic engine sensor ....cdi,ecu

cable working at the trans or clutch handle

Don't think so, two different part numbers. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1997-kawasaki-vulcan-1500-vn1500a-front-bevel-gear/o/m149756sch61270 1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 = part # 764509 http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2004-kawasaki-vulcan-1500-classic-vn1500e-front-bevel-gear/o/m149231sch288585 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 classic = part # 764585

Check your ground wire at headlamp plug.

float needle sticking by sounds of your trouble ,

The air should bleed out until coolant appears at the housing.
If air keeps coming back maybe a head gasket problem.
Is the cap good

you say the bike cranks but do you have spark? apart from that check your main fuse ,after that things get tricky and time for a shop to look it over

The real wheel is likely not centered. Check the rear wheel and carefully measure the distances from the axle to a fixed point they need to be even. If they're not you will get the uneven tire wear you describe.

It sounds like a slightly bent shift fork and / or a broken gear tooth or two. Getting to the shift forks and gears is a pretty major undertaking and the repair is not recommended for the novice mechanic. Your best bet is to take the bike to a dealer and let a mechanic make a determination as to the problem. Transmission repairs are somewhat expensive. A single cylinder bike may cost $750 or so to fix. A four cylinder is more likely to be in the $1700+ range.

You need to check the charging current and also the discharging of the battery in the IDLE mode.
Please check this link for some tips.

http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5824824-draining_car_battery_charge

Use a multimeter to check the charging current and also discharging rate when the engine is switched off.

The alternator and accessories must be checked.

The clutch/neutral/side stand safety switch connectors or conductors becomming loose or disconnected .

Air in the clutch hydraulic system or other clutch related problem.

Defective clutch safety switch.

Defective neutral safety switch.

Defective side stand safety switch.

Does the engine rev in neutral with no problems? Does engine rev in gear with clutch disengaged (lever pulled)?

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Get the switches checked.Most probably, its causing the problem.But if switches checked out ok, then it can be clutch related issue:---

Click this link below for more help:---

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/kawasaki-motorcycle-clutch.html

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This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

congrads, I have a 96. there is a seal up in there for the final drive to driveshaft. not sure if it can be changes without removing assy
www.repairmanualclub.com
www.bikebandit.com
good luck

Hi, make sure your lever is adjusted to your foot. You can turn the linkage arm adjuster up or down to get a better throw on the lever. If you don't wear boots when riding, this is always a problem on a Kawasaki due to the positive neutral finder. The fist question you get when you call the Kawasaki Hotline is if the rider wears boots or not.
If adjusting the lever doesn't help the problem is internal. Under the gear change cover the items to check would be the pawl that rotates the drum and the detent arm and spring. If the edge of the pawl is worn, it won't move the drum far enough. If the detent arm or spring isn't working, it will want to drop into a false neutral. I've had very good luck by removing all of the parts and polishing them, removing any burrs and replacing the springs. If the problem isn't found under the cover in the gear change area then the only other solution is to pull the motor apart and inspect the tranny itself.

thats good and also chec plug wires for age... However u may need to rebalance the carbs and cylinders--do u hav a clymer manual!!

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.