kawasaki VN 800 Vulcan Classic - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 6

Here is a link to download all sorts of owner resources Enjoy and Good Luck!!

http://www.kawasaki.com/kawasakinew/accessories2/PCCatItems.aspx?intCatalogID=1&intCatalogType=4&ProductTypeID=63&ModelMarketingID=221&ModelYear=2002&ModelCode=VN800B7

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adjust the brake its very easy if this doesent work then its problably the switch but i havent had a problem with the switch just readjusted the linkage

First make sure the battery, cables, and starter weren't damaged. Next check the Kill switch position and Kick stand switch. Hope this helps.

The settings on a carburator is very important and is a technical job than to open,clean and reset.
So it is possible that the settings of the carb had changed when it was removed and refitted. The air/fuel mixture, the throttle settings, the idle and the choke valves/jets, must be set correctly.
Make sure that the air/fuel mixture is corrected so that the correct fuel mix goes to the cylinder , if not there will not be any firing.Finally check the spark intensity on the plugs with the timings.

Hi

Check if the chain is in proper adjustment. Improper adjustment to the point of being too tight will make a grinding noise. The only internal grinding possibility would be the primary drive from the crank to the torque convertor. if the chain is in proper adjustment, then if sprockets are hooked and if the chain can be pulled back off the rear sprocket at the 3:00 o'clock position to the point of being over 1/2 the tooth height or if you can see a gap underneath. Both are indications of a worn out chain and sprocket set.

Also check this link to troubleshoot the noise that you are getting:-

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/StrangeNoises.htm

Remove the single screw or nut that holds the speedometer cas to the tank. carefully move the case forward and release from the front or the tand. disconnect the two or three plugs and the speedometer cable and remove the speedometer case. under the case you will find a bolt holding the front of the tank. remove it along with the rear bolt. Disconnect the fuel line and the petcock vacuum line on the left side and remove the tank straight up. As you remove the tank some models have a vent line on the right side under the tank that must be removed. Don't lose the rubber knobs that hold the tank straight. they are on the frame at the bottom of the tank. Good luck.......Jim

If it is a rubber bushing, you can try spraying silicone into it and allowing the siicone to work in. That should quiet it down.

there is a brass washer that goes on the oil drain plug this wears out and needs to be replaced every now and again.

The diagram shows it as being a 10mm flanged nut. Our local dealer has the online order list with diagram. Below is the link to the site. The part number is 92015 and it runs about $3.00. If you've lost the nut and the bolt slid out enough to impede your ability to shift, there is a good chance you will need the Damper too (see diagram) part number 92075 and that runs around $15.00. The website includes the diagram below as well as the prices for the individual parts.

http://oemparts.buymotorcycleparts.com/dillonbrothers/Kawasaki_OEM/KawasakiMC.asp?Type=13&A=470&B=21

Dillon Brothers is our local dealer here in Omaha. If you can't find it locally, you could probably order it online from them.

Good to hear the bolt didn't come all the way out.

Good Luck.


Ken

It could be that one of the Pistons in your engine have locked. This can happen if the motor chassis breaks, or the motor gets too hot and the piston expands due to the heat, gets stuck and damages the engines internals (and if unlucky the valves as well.

I had this happen to me once on the Highway. All of a sudden, the back wheel of my Aprilia blocked while I was going 70 Mph. Not a good experience. In my case it turned out the cooler had failed, and the engine overheated.

Sounds like the kickstand switch is shorting out. It only dies when put in gear. If you have had your switch removed, check out the wires, if the switch is still there and working, check out the switch, it might need a shot of wd40. Check it out.

You might want to trace the wires and see if you have any bare wires that could be vibrating around and shorting out as you ride, they would be moving unless you where riding

Bad switch,Bad relay,bad solenoid the solenoid may need cleaning.
For troubleshooting remove the positive wire from the starter.
That is the biggest one. on the starter.
Now place a load on the wire say a headlight or 12 volt fan

it sounds like your charging system is out. use your volt meter check the battery charge before you start the bike, it should read about 12 volt, start your bike now, check you meter you should be running about 13.5 volts. rev your bike watch your meter it should spike around 14.5 if your meter jumps up over 15 your reg/rec is not working right, if it drops when you rev the bike you stator is not working. Its always best to replace them as a pair as they work as a pair and bad old part can kill a nice new pricey part if you follow what im saying. the stator is the coil winding that makes a/c power after its made it goes to regulator/ rectifier it's job is take that a/c power and make it d/c (you can only make a/c power and store d/c power) it also regulates the volts around 13.5. see what you got and let me know
hope this helps
M.Woodring

Provide hose clips

the pilot(idle) jet is clogged,need to do a good carb clean/rebuild(carb kit).that should take care of your problem.hope that helps.

well of corse its true. its like sticking ur hand flat into the wind when ur driving ur car. its all wind resistence. if u were to somehow lean the windguard back about 6 to 7 degrees it would make a wind bubble over you which would make it easier for ur bike to flow into the wind. more or less like drafting. hope this helped

The VIN number is stamped on the offside of the steering bearing post.

Hi,,,your regulator/rectifier is at fault,,it is overcharging the battery and making acid come out,,you will also need a new battery as the one you have is cooked.

u need a clymer manual for details