kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 5

Check that you have a god bulb and a good ground, broken wire or connecter

One of several reasons... 1. You are not getting the transmission into neutral correctly 2. The neutral detent spring/plunger is weak/broken 3. The shift drum locator is worn or broken 4. The shift shaft arm that moves the shift drum is worn or broken 5. You have extremely worn shift forks. Its time to have a professional look at it... this jumping into gear will eventually cause serious damage to your transmission.

Possibly the lever's locking bolt thread has stripped or the thread on the bolt is worn. Another aspect is the splines in the lever are shot and/or the splines on the gear change shaft are badly worn. Remove lever and check the splines on both shaft and lever also check around the lever fixing section for any cracks. Check the threaded section of the lever with a brand new bolt the bolt should be easy to turn in and out by finger and should have no side to side play. When refitting the existing lever or a new one make sure the lever is a good fit on the gearbox shaft splines before you tighten the bolt.

Stuck in 1st and neutral is correct on a Kawasaki...2nd won't engage until the output shaft is turning at approx. 12 mph. This is to make neutral easier to find at a standstill. If you spin the back wheel to a decent speed by hand then second should engage. The stalling problem when trying to pull away is due to the sidestand switch...it's either sticking or not engaging with it's activating bracket properly. If it stalls as soon as you put it in 1st then the microswitch on the clutch lever has a problem also...

Sounds like a fueling problem - either have the fuel injection looked at and maybe new injectors- or have the carbs checked - you haven't really gone into any detail about the bike , the mods to the bike , the year model are you at sea lvl? If you have added a set of pipes or a new free flow air filter it will change the jetting/air fuel mix.

I would replace it with an eBay guaranteed working unit with similar mileage reading, and replace the speedo cable for good measure. All the best!

you have alot of options,emco are a good aftermarket company,or just stay with stock brake parts if they are resonably priced.

undo the bleed nipple slightly on the slave cylinder , remove cover on clutch lever and make sure to keep it topped up as you bleed ! pull lever and hold as you nip up the nipple then release lever ! do this several times , be careful not to get fluid on paint work as it will melt it ! once done top up fluid and fit cover and try !

Fuel pilot device, had the same problem.

Sounds like the seals for the disc caliper pistons are shot, and need replacing. HOWEVER, you didn't say if it was the Front or Rear brake! So, rear brake: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2001-kawasaki-vulcan-1500-classic-vn1500e-rear-brake-vn1500-e4/o/m149443sch78489 Front brake: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2001-kawasaki-vulcan-1500-classic-vn1500e-front-brake/o/m149443sch77742 Items Items # 43049 & 43049A for both. Shop it around on Ebay

change your temperature sending unit or check it's connection

Check the connections they may be loose. If the connections are loose just tighten them and it should work. If not replace the battery. Most of the time if a battery sulfates it will still show a full charge but will not have the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) to start the bike. Take the battery and have it tested. CycleGear can test the battery I think. If not most autozones can check the battery. I am 99% sure it will need to be replaced. If the relay or solenoid were bad there would be no clicking at all. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

I believe these are "sealed" from the factory to prevent "*******" tampering.. try ebay.. might find one will less milage than yours..?

This is normal for Kawasaki's...2nd won't engage until the gearbox output shaft is turning fast enough to locate the centrifugal lockout bearing. This is to make it easier to find neutral at a standstill...

you may have an air lock try opening your rad cap when cold and running your bike @ idle to circulate out air and ?or you may have an overheating problem caused by your fan not coming on and worse case scenario your engine has lean issues or lack of oil causing the engine to overheat

If you modified the exhaust or intake you will have to re jet the carburetors.

new plugs , air cleaner , drain carby bowls look for dirt , fuel filter ?

Remove the rear engine cover on the left side.

yes it can, check the tps with a volt/ohm meter , voltage should change smoothly with throttle opening.

Never heard of any car or bike that automatically shuts down when out of oil.