kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 2


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
VN1500 Clutch Problems Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forums
how to change clutch replacement by Dmitry
http://xn--80azbq.xn--p1ai/failo/Kawasaki_VN1500__87-_99_Service_Manual.pdf
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki

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kawasaki VN 1500... | 38 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Michell this engine has an overhead camshaft that uses shims to adjust valve clearance it has no hydraulic lifters that self-prime, for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How To Adjust Your Valves
Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Valve Clearance Adjustment EVERY 6000 MILES VN800B...
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


2001 kawasaki VN... | 405 views | 0 helpful votes


noisy cam followers or hydraulic lifters from lack of oil indicates that the bearings also were short of oil
yes the valve train is the last to get oil but if they had none then there would be little for the big ends and mains so if it appears to be short of oil up top , it may be because the bottom end has suffered damage

1998 kawasaki VN... | 48 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch cable adjusted too tight.
2. Pressure plate center screw adjusted too tight
3. A broken clutch rod.
4. Slave cylinder piston stuck.
5. Clutch plate missing from the clutch pack.
6. Clutch plates have worn past minimum specifications.
7. Clutch plates crystallized due to incompatible oil.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-cruisers/66113-gears-wont-engage.html
clutch will not engage
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2004 Kawasaki Vulcan 2000 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2000 kawasaki VN... | 52 views | 0 helpful votes


Try berrymans b12 and some fresh gas through the tank and into the carb. Let it sit for 24 hours and see if that clears up the problem if not you will need a rebuild of the petcock. K&L has rebuild kits. Refer to the manual for removing the tank and petcock. Its a pretty straight forward procedure.

1998 kawasaki VN... | 62 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Mark if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
carb adjustment
Carburator Theory and Tuning
Kawasaki VN1500 MEAN STREAK Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1998 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1997 kawasaki VN... | 1,327 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Curtis for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Cam Chain Noise
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-14177.html
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-vulcan-owners-manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1996 kawasaki VN... | 139 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, HOsscat77 #2 looks good for this issue otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. Insufficient oil level or no oil in engine or tank.
2. Air in oil system that needs to be bled.
3. Blockage in the oil tank or line.
4. Oil pump failure.
5. Faulty oil pressure sending unit.
6. Grounded oil pressure light circuit.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Warning lights on engine clatters
Oil light won go out
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1996 kawasaki VN... | 266 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous external oil deposits fall into 3 categories:
1. WEEPAGE is oil that is sweated pass gaskets, seals, o-rings, and crankcase seams, it's covered by dry dust and is normal for older engines with lots of miles, no repair is necessary.
2. SEEPAGE is the same as weepage except the deposit is wet and confines itself to a specific area, repair is optional depending on the owner's cleanliness criteria, the deposit location and the amount of "DRACHMA" he is willing to part with
3. LEAKAGE is the same as seepage except it is enough to drop to the ground leaving a spot. Repair as necessary.
To find the source of your oil leak, start at the point where you see oil and trace its path going up and forward, blowing baby powder from the palm of your hand will help in those difficult to see areas if there is too much oil present then buy a spray can of engine degreaser apply it to the affected area then rinse off with a pressure wand or garden hose, use compressed air to blow off excess water or just let it drip dry, take your bike for a 15 minute ride and check for the leak.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
My 1999 vulcan 1500 has an oil leak
1998 Vulcan 1500 shifter seal leak
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-vulcan-owners-manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1996 kawasaki VN... | 189 views | 0 helpful votes


How many miles?? The needle jet/jet needle (brass kit) may need replacing ...they wear out due to vibration and cause the spark plugs to turn black, get poor milage, and then "carbon foul".
Try running it without the air filter for a few miles.. see if that makes it run better. If so, I would replace the air filter and put a new brass kit in the carburetor.
You can try moving the CLIP on the needle UP to the second to the top position, OR the top position..that will lean out the mixture/carburetor.

Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic 1996 2004 Service Repair Maintenance

2002 kawasaki VN... | 56 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Mary and the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ignition coil.
2. Faulty spark plug cables.
3. Faulty temperature sensor.
4. Faulty starter motor.
5. Valves adjusted too tight.
6. Spark plug gap too wide.
7. Fuel has vapor lock.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
won start up after its warm
Hot starting problem
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1999 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1999 kawasaki VN... | 125 views | 1 helpful votes


in cars it is called a ring gear .

2004 kawasaki VN... | 36 views | 0 helpful votes


??..Can you pull the bearing out? Is it held in with a snap ring?

Get one of these... it WILL answer your question and show you how to do anything on your bike! Good luck...

Clymer Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 1987 1999

1998 kawasaki VN... | 39 views | 0 helpful votes


get a volt meter and check the three yellow wires coming out of stator / generator. All should read over 12.6volts, all should have same voltage. if not, chevk plug connections for burning or, if they are good, pull out stator for testing.
If stator is good, replace voltage regulator unit, usually under seat near battery.

kawasaki VN 1500... | 159 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous try using wooden spacer blocks to clear the exhaust or remove the exhaust pipe in question for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1999 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Nomad Owner Manual
1999 Kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic Motorcycle Specs
Kawasaki Vulcan

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1999 kawasaki VN... | 64 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Wally before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing and printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
help 1500 not charging battery and other electrical issues
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-vulcan-owners-manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1996 kawasaki VN... | 81 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Vulcan Sputtering at Takoff Low RPM
Carburator Theory and Tuning
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2002 kawasaki VN... | 259 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Rocker valve cover gasket replacement
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-cruisers/54025-1500-oil-leak.html
http://xn--80azbq.xn--p1ai/failo/Kawasaki_VN1500__87-_99_Service_Manual.pdf
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1996 kawasaki VN... | 218 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Corey_stackh the "TF" is the one you use once set it will automatically set the rear cylinder timing the "R" is there for convenience for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual
Kawasaki VN 1500 Classic 1996
Kawasaki Vulcan

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1996 kawasaki VN... | 197 views | 0 helpful votes

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