kawasaki Ninja 250R - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Question edited for clarity and maker. Question moved from 'Power Motorcycles' to model category. It could be. A diode is an electrical component that only allows power to travel in one direction. When they fail, there is no power in any direction. You can test it with a multimeter. It will pass Ohms one way, but not the other if it is working.

Needs a 100ohm 2w resistor installed on the gray wire inline between the ignition and the connector coupling.

310ml all the best.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

To my knowledge, there would only be 3 wires needed from the handlebars that affects the engine:

• engine RUN/OFF;
• clutch ENGAGED;
• engine START.

The first 2 would go to the interlock plus the neutral wire and the sidestand wire. The interlock then sends signals that starter motor can turn and that CDI can fire.

As to the ignition coil, 1 wire is IGN B+12 while the other would go to the CDI and should pulsate when cranking or engine running.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

If it is made different, then you got the wrong part. There can also be changes in electrical items in mid year production. Unfortunately, most electrical parts are not returnable. I suggest you take the part number for the part you got and look it up on the internet or go to your local dealer. OEM is the way to go. Good luck.

Hey Anon, remove the battery, have it's CCA's - ( Cold Cranking Amps ) checked... this is the only true measure of a batteries health. O'Reilly's, Auto Zone, Advance Auto can check it..they will tell you if its good or not. Install new (recommended) spark plugs.. Next, its time to make sure the injectors are getting fuel,,..make sure the petcock is letting fuel through.. DO NOT put "additives" in it...make sure the injectors are passing fuel..(fuel pressure) It might be time for a trip to a qualified professional to double check the injectors.. An internal combustion engine requires 3 things to run: 1. A properly timed spark 2. Adequate compression >120PSI 3. A proper fuel/air ratio one - or more - is not working.. eliminate one by one..

Hey Simon, I would haul it to a local (GOOD) locksmith, they will get it open.. Are you 110% SURE it the RIGHT key??? Good luck...

Frame number(VIN) is stamped on the yoke behind the headlight. You have to turn the handle bar fully in order to see it on the frame. The engine number is stamped on top of the lower half of the engine behind the cylinders (basically on top of the gearbox)

http://mototh.com/files/kawasaki/Ninja_250R/Kawasaki_Ninja_250R_FI-English.pdf

I normally put a screwdriver between the terminals on the solenoid to see if it starts. If it does The second thing to do is listen for a click in the solenoid when pressing the start button. If it does but doesn't turn the starter then it's the solinoid at fault not the starter button. If you get nothing when connecting the terminals it's proberly the starter motor or connections.

where the valves set cold or hot? could make the world of a difference...is there intake leaks? bad floats perhaps....its a problem that will take some time cancelling out problem by problem

Hi,when I do plugs on bikes I always remove the fuel tank to make it easyer to get to the plugs. hope this was some help.

You shouldnt need to its electronic

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Your post "engine will not turn start", are you referring to the starter motor not turning or is it cranking but will not run?

• if no crank, check the starter relay;
• will not run, verify that there is spark at the end of the plugs;
• will not tun, verify that there is fuel in the bowl of the carb (drain again);
• if it has a fuel valve, set to PRI.

Incidentally, any clicking sound when you press START? Pls postback updates.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Did you check if your clutch lever cable is loose?

The service manual is different depending on the year of your 250R. Which year is it? Here's a sample 250R service manual: http://mototh.com/files/kawasaki/Ninja_250R/Kawasaki_Ninja_250R_FI-English.pdf

remove screen and any surrounding plastics unscrew the 4 screws holding fairing to headlamp

The pads are chattering and moving away from the disc or you have a load of air in the system. You may need to add/replace anti-vibration clips. Are your discs warped? That would force the pads away.

You will have to be more specific on what you have done to isolate the problem. How do you have engine oil leaking and being drawn into the intake? Where is the leak, because you can obviously see it, so how is it migrating to the inlet? Have you done any work on it recently whereby you could have refitted something incorrectly. The most likely thing is a breather hose that is causing the engine to vent the oil from somewhere. If the airbox and all the inlet parts are as they should be then where is the oil entering the inlet? Go through the various hoses large and small and make sure they are properly connected. One obvious thought is; Is the engine oil level correct as per the handbook? Have you added a bit extra"for luck" ? There isn't a great deal of oil in it in the first place so it wouldn't take much to overfill. Overfilling can cause seals/gaskets to blow etc. In worst cases it can break the piston rings. Clean the engine with detergent, start up, don't rev it above fast idle and see where and how quickly the oil appears. If its entering the airbox and being sucked into the engine then you need specialist help or a good DIY biker. You don't actually say if its running OK?? Careful diagnosis and logical thinking will get to the bottom of this. Don't spend a penny on parts yet, because you're going to look silly if its only something you refitted wrongly.

Hello,use Shell Rotella T6 5w-40