kawasaki KX 85 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Motorcycle Service and Repair Manuals

The question to you would be how do you know? There is nothing to obstruct the oil level view. If you are not seeing it then there is not enough or you need to have the crank case opened and flushed out.

Add a carb cleaner like BG .amsoil or seafoam bfor it gits dirtier.....avoid rebuild. That dollar cleaner dont work..doesnt take varnish off

Find out what type of valve timing gears or belt this has, because it must have jumped one tooth or gear.

the compression is dropping due to piston wear an slap more noticeable when heated up revved up some miracle oils /fluids can help this still a wild guess

Sounds like a cam bearing but you should pull the right side cover and check your clutch assembly

the engine oil serves to lube the engine and the transmission as well, cannot change just the trans oil by itself.

Generally, pipes turning blue from too much heat will be caused by improper fuel/air mixture or timing. If the bike exhibited no problems before changing the pipes, my guess would be that you need to readjust your carburetor. This would not be an uncommon step necessary when changing pipes. Might as well check your timing at the same time though.

If you have to ask, really, you shouldn't

Clutch worn or dirty plates. Wrong oil.

under the seat or inside the side cover.

OK officially you are supposed to measure oil height. Oil quantity is not quite right because you cannot measure the amount of oil remaining in the passages or on the walls. its only a little but to be correct set it at 110mm from the top, compressed, no spring. if you don't have the tool and don't wanna try to do it properly, 300cc per fork.

you should take the cables into a motorcycle shop to be shortened to the correct length. extra long cables can melt on the exhaust and then stick and can be dangerous. also rerouting cables can cause extra stress if they are not strait enough to operate correctly...

You may be able to tuck the extra cable under the tank or just reroute them in a completely different area. the best option would be to just shorten your cables or order shorter cables. you should be able to buy new ends on ebay or any aftermarket site, rockymountainatv, marshall distributing, automatic, western power sports, etc,(that solder on with silver solder and flux) pull the silver end off, trim the inner cable, then the outer cable and put back together. there should be a motorcycle shop around you that could do it easily. a shop close to here would do it for $10 or less a cable.

If gear box making clunk sound, you have to tell this to Authorized Service Professional.

check to make sure there is not a ground short somewhere. the kill switch is the first place to look.

Move the needle clip up 1 place and turn your fuel screw in 1/4 turn increments and test ride between adjustments

Instructions

1. • 1 Unscrew the passenger seat\'s mounting bolt, positioned on the rear of the seat, using a socket wrench and a 10 mm socket. Lift the passenger seat up and away from the rider\'s seat.
   • 2 Flip the passenger seat upside down and place it on a clean work area. Pry out the seat cover\'s staples from the bottom of the seat pan with a small pry bar or staple puller. Pull off the vinyl cover and remove the foam from the seat pan.
   • 3 Flip the seat pan over. Place the Utopia back rest bar over the top of the seat pan, following the contours of seat pan. Center the bar in the middle of the pan, then mark the location of the bar\'s mounting holes on the seat pan with a permanent marker. Remove the back rest bar.
   • 4 Drill two holes into the seat pan at the marked locations, using an electric drill and a 9/32-inch drill bit. Place the back rest bar onto the seat pan. Screw the kit\'s bolts and lock washers through the bottom of the pan and into the back rest bar. Tighten the bolts with a 10 mm socket and a socket wrench.
   • 5 Lay the seat\'s foam next to the seat pan. Mark the approximate location of the back rest bar\'s protruding neck at the front of the seat onto the foam with a permanent marker. Cut a slit into the foam at the marked area, using a sharp knife. Place the foam over the seat pan and push the bar\'s neck through the foam\'s newly cut slit.
   • 6 Place the vinyl cover over the seat foam and pan. Pull the cover tight around the sides of the seat and staple it into place, using a heavy-duty staple gun. Cut a slit into the seat cover with a razor to allow the back rest bar\'s neck to extend outward. Remove the paper backing from the plastic boot included with the back rest kit. Slide the boot over the bar\'s neck and hold it firmly in place for 30 seconds.
   • 7 Reinstall the passenger seat on the motorcycle and tighten its bolt with a 10 mm socket. Place the back rest over the bar\'s neck on the passenger seat. Slip a bolt through the backrest\'s mounting holes and into the tube on the bar\'s neck. Loosely screw a nut onto the end of the bolt. Adjust the angle of the back rest, then tighten the bolt and nut using a 10 mm socket and a 10 mm wrench.

Best solution I've found is Plexus. Comes in a blue and black aerosol can. Every bike store here sells it, but it's made in the US. It's a general purpose plastic polish. It kills the static and it creates a hard, slippery layer that makes cleaning easy.Just don't polish your helmet with it, no matter how tempting it is, because it makes it incredibly slippery and you will drop it.

Sounds like you have linked these up to ignition switch out feed to the kill switch/running curcuit rather than the lighting curcuit out from the ignition. most bike run 2 somtimes 3 curcuits out from the ignition switch one running curcuit and one lighting.