kawasaki KX 250 F - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

There is no reason for the idle to take 10-15 seconds to slow to normal. perhaps you have a vacume leak. check all your seal and gaskets between the engine and the carb.also when it is running spray gummout spray or equivilent around the gasket edges between the engine and the carb, if the idle increases when you spray then you have a vacume leak. (intake leak). It may be that this is causing it to be hard to start when it is hot.(not getting enough fuel)

Hi,there is some stuff on the market called XADO (have a look on ebay) it fills in deformed scratches and gose to parts that are high friction areas. I know this stuff works as I use it on all my vechles,go and have a look and make your own mind up,hope this helped all the best.

Brake master cylinder is no good 100%
Don't bother with a repair kit just replace the unit.

The parts called selectors which engage the gears can wear out specially if been abused

a lot of new bikes have a automatic choke ,but if you look at the carburetor you should see 2 cables 1 is the throttle cable the other is the return cable both run up to the throttle hand control (some bikes might not have a return cable) if you see a third cable its probably the choke cable so you will need to follow it , sometimes it might not be a cable but a leaver on the side of the carbi , some cables run just under the seat or to the left handle bar depends .

issue with the thermostat maybe, not allowing engine to start.

Sounds like a warranty claim???? New unit required!

You have to open any bleeder valve firstThen you slowly push out the air & brake fluidThere is never any pumping to be done on a caror any product in order to bleed any fluid.All your doing is getting out the airThen when the system is closed there is no pumpingto create a high hydraulic pressure ,just a gentle applicationof the brake or clutch

Suck it out with a hose ... remove the tank and dump it ... pump it with a pump ... draw it out with a turkey baster. This isn\'t difficult.

Have u checked your kick start shaft might be striped or broke?

the shaft seal is bad behind the pull start and leaking oil into your stater which is why you arent getting any spark for it to crank

mine is good at 3 to 3-1/2 turns out from gently seated.dale

"Helicoil" and "keensert" are thread inserts that can repair that stripped hole as long as there is room around the hole for the thread repair insert. "helicoil" takes the less amound of room. Most auto part stores have thread repair kits, all you need to know is the original thread size or bolt.

It sounds like the needle & seat in the carb float chamber is stuck open. Take out the needle attached to the float and clean and blow the jet out. Replace needle and check when you lift the float if the needle closes. Before you reassemble, attache the fuel pipe and see if the fuel still runs out when you lift the float and the needle closes.

Koubalink I am short as well, could ride fine, but as the bike is tough to kickstart, I needed the height to get a full range on the kickstart. Bought a Koubalink, fitted it in about 30 mins and worked out perfectly. Cheers

probably not cooing out the oil filter, possibly coming out the water pump telltale hole, to let you know it needs a new water pump seal

If unfamiliar with 4 strokes, I suggest you let a dealer do the repairs. There is a whole world of things you can mess up on; cam mount torque, cam chain timing, sprocket positioning relative to cam lobe position, etc...

Try draining the carb. Condensation may be in the float bowl. Also install a fresh spark plug.

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick. Please rate my answer.

Starting problems on your bike are usually related to twisting the throttle too often. Remember, the carb has a diaphragm pump in it that gives a shot of gas each time the throttle is twisted. That means the engine can flood quickly if you get happy on the gas. Gently use the kickstart lever to ease the piston just past top center on the compression stroke. Now give a good strong kick. Repeat as needed.