kawasaki KX 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 4

Just remove the right side cover to expose the kick start mechanism. Remove the bolt on the end of the shaft, tow washers and guide then the spring. It has been awhile since I worked on the KX 250, but as I recall, the clutch does not need to be removed in the process of replacing the spring. I could be wrong on that. Below is the kick mechanism on your bike. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

it sounds like the float,in the carb is stuck,,so not stopping fuel as it fills.....give it a tap on the bottom of the carb if no joy take off and clean,,,

There should be a allen key plug to take out of the caliper then once this is out there will be another allen key head behind the plug to undo (this is the pin) just undo, take out and the pads should be able to be removed.
Pay close attention to the direction pads come out and any spacers between the pads and brake piston as you want them all back in exactly the same with the new pads they stop the pads from rattling around when riding
good luck regards Jamie

Could you let us know what model it is as many different Kawasaki's and all take different volumes of oil

Replace the sleeve is the only option - I think there would not be enough cylinder wall left if you rebored it as it is a sleeved cylinder it relys on the sleeve for extra wall thickness and strength you can rehone the sleeve if it is not too badly scratched you can get honing tools around $80 ish? they fit into cordless drill

Please check your jetting ( main & pilot ). Are they work. Check also your floating valve for stuck. A stuck floating valve will not allow the fuel flow.

Regards

A couple of possibilities- - Float is corroded and not floating - Valve either gummed up or worn and stuck - Float level not properly set
Typical float valves
Typical floats

does it have spark and are the rings in right aliment and is the gas on i have made that mistake

Change your oil immediately - replacing with the proper quantity and quality lubricant recommended by Kawasaki.

The clutch fluid may need filling up and replacing. If the lever and cabling are ok it could also be an issue with the mechanical parts. I am thinking on the tension of the clutch as it is engaged on the gear. You may have to inspect the inside as the cable is not transferring force to relieve the clutch. Check for linkages that may have come off.

The reason the system will not pump fluid is because there is air in the master cylinder pump. Typically, air trapped in the master cylinder is the cause of the lack of pressure. Cover your paint and plastic first with a plastic bag and then with a towel in case of spillage. Now loosen the banjo bolt on the master cylinder just enough to let allow fluid to leak out when you pump the master cylinder. Pump the master cylinder until you get a big push of DOT 3/4 brake fluid at the banjo bolt(usually 2 or 3 pumps). Now tighten the banjo bolt and bleed the system (slave cylinder) to get the rest of the air out. Be careful to keep DOT 3/4 brake fluid in the reservoir. Do not pump it dry, if you **** air into the master cylinder you will have to start all over again.

603 ml per fork

good day please check your engine oil and if its o.k check carburetor clean your clean your airbox,check also your sparkplug and your high tension wire and try to start tnx.

there is no ryme or reason on vin #'s like there used to be, it is usually a letter out in the middle. you about have to call a dealer

did u take out your jets out & poke wire through them. i had one that had green goo that didn't blow out with air, had to poke it out

Yes it will still run just a little ruff and may die after just a few seconds

A 250 is a pretty strong bike. I would suggest something like a 125 or 175cc. You can always trade it in or sell it when you are ready to go bigger and that way you are not getting in over your head. Be sure any bigger bike like the 250 has an electric starter. A kick starter on a 250 can break your leg if the bike fires early. The 250 also weighs about 75 pounds more than a 125. Pretty hard to manhandle a 250 in the woods and an inadvertent twist of the throttle can pop a wheelie that can bring the bike right down on top of you. That kinda hurts. Please rate my answer. Thanks and best wishes.

Not really use small screwdriver and slowly tap it with small hammer in side of the wall but be careful do not spoil the housing.

your wheel bearings are a sealed ball type. the seal will have the part number code on it.you can get bearings from a engineering supply shop.you can measure i/d and o/d and width to take to the shop for verifercation if bearings have collapsed and code numbers are detierated.dont forget that you need dust seals which will also have numbers on them.rule of logic if back bearings worn you might as wll do front as well.they are cheap so if you put in alot of riding hours buy extra sets for your tool box .you never know when they give way until it is to late.hope this info helps you out.happy riding!

This is general info as there are many models of kawasaki
There is usually a spring and ball bearing, or spring loaded lever,that holds the shift cam in position
The spring and ball is held in by a bolt that may look similar to a sump plug under the bike.(could be called an indent spring)
or the lever is in the rhs side cover under the clutch, if its not them. It could be a bent shift fork or worn shift drum, but these two require a major strip down.
See if you can get a manual with an exploded view of the gearbox for whatever model you have, and see what is most likely.